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Bolt Hold Open Mods....


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I know this has been covered a time or two but most of the pictures of the mods are no longer their. So, if anyone can help me out with some pictures and some info on the" know how " part of it all, I would certainly appreciate it. I have Doug's book on the semis' but he don't talk about this, I wish he would. I want to do this by my self and I really don't want to send it off and pay through the nose for this mod.

 

 

This is the only thing I have left to do on the gun and I will be using the 1927a1 lower frame for this and not the 1928. The reason is I already have wood from Dan B. and legal issues in Mich 30'' rule, so no detachable stock. I cut the barrel down for a overall length 16'' with comp so that would put me under the 30'' rule.

 

I know this is a TALL order but I really would like your professional help... and yes I have the tools.

 

What parts will I be needing for this? I know some of them

1. Pivot Plate

2. Selector switch

3.

4.

5.

6.

 

Thanks

Elbow

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Elbow

 

Why can't you have a detachable stock in MI ? I do and I live in MI. The gun just has to be presented for a safety inspection and issued a green card. The MI 26"/30" law states that a rifle to be legal in MI must have a barrell length of at least 16" and an overall length of 30"s. If the firearm has a 16" barrell (mine has a 16"OAL with PERMENENTLY ATTACHED per BATF guidelines comp.) but the overall length of the gun is shorter the 30"s but greater then 26"s it must be presented for a safety inspection and issued a green card. If the gun has either a barrell shorter then 16's or an overall length shorter then 26"s it is considered a short barrelled rifle and very illegal in MI. With a 16" barrell and the stock removed you are about a 1/4" short of 30". If you measure it to the rear tip of the firing pin you could almost argue legality.

If you dont hold a MI concealed pistols license technicaly your suppose to file for your green card first. The only thing that gets you there is the card is only good for 10 days from issue. I stopped in the PD first and let them know I would be walking in the door with a cased rifle. The officers that checked it out thought it looked pretty cool. I even got a call at home a few days later from the chief. He was going through the paper work and saw auto ordnance thompson for a safety inspection and just wanted to be sure I wasnt trying to put a FA thompson on a green card by mistake.

In regards to the bolt hold open it's a modified pawl from what I can see and PK's markings full auto and semi auto really look good on the side of the 27a1 receiver which he also remachined for the 28 stock assy. About a month ago I finally finished it with a repro Kerr sling from what price glory and it really looks good. Dans 2" longer foregrip makes a big difference also. Now a 3 cell xxxrd pouch and I'm done. Already have the drums, xxx's and the xx's with pouch.

M1Brian

Edited by M1Brian
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QUOTE
Why can't you have a detachable stock in MI ?

 

It is perfectly legal (federal law) to have a deactable stock on a WH/Kahr M1 as long as it have factory length barrel.

 

The M1 semi-auto comes with a 16" barrel, so it would still be of legal length.

 

The M1 is usually not seen with a detachable stock, but it could be done.

 

Keep in mind that some state/local laws may restrict this!

 

Norm

 

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The images below were originaly posted by Damon (tommygunner?) a year or so back. At the time I was working on converting a 28 lower for my Kahr. Damon was kind enough to post these to show me what the part looked like.

 

I talked to someone on the phone at the time (can't remember who, I think it was either Damon or Doug Richardson) anyway, they said that a stock part could be modified using washers soldered on to the parts as spacers. The part below was milled from a solid piece of metal. That is all the help I can give you, my Thompson is sitting in pieces waiting for me to finish it. Hey its only been two years...

 

http://members.cox.net/tokyoirongold/milledpawl.jpg

 

 

http://members.cox.net/tokyoirongold/milledpawl2.jpg

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Thanks for the replies so far guys.

 

M1 Brian Thanks for the info. I knew about the pistol laws, but I'm am not willing to go that route. Also, I have new wood from Dan and I would have to change that out or rework it by adding the detachable hardware. So I'd rather leave it alone because I'll never use the the detachable stock anyway. It's to much for something I don't need. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/smile.gif Note: It's 29 1/4'' without the butt stock, 3/4'' shy of 30 inch. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/sad.gif Now if I didn't cut down the barrel I would go this route, but I would still hate that LONG barrel. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif

 

Thanks Norm

 

 

Kilroyjones; Two years!! http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif Get that thing done and take some pictures of the process and post it, not many exist. Thanks for the pics. I'll post some pics when I do this also. I'm sure someone will use this stuff in future. Tommy gunner is backlogged for over a year now. I just can't wait that long....

 

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I did this mod myself, too. It didn't work out that well though. I soldered washers on the side of my pawl and made the spring just like in the picture. It worked well until after shooting the first mag through it. I guess heating it up while soldering it weakened the metal causing it to have a huge bur on it after the last shot. That resulted in a bolt that was locked back and wouldn't drop http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/mad.gif ! I had to drive out the pivot plate and dig the parts out through the cocking handle slot(M1).

 

So be careful, just trying to save someone some a headache.

 

Dan

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I think a mig welder might just do the trick. I machined a spacer for my new pawl, which took 5 weeks to arrive from Khar. Talk about speedy service! I might just give it another try by grinding a slot in the spacer I made. The trick is getting the music wire spring that the selector catches just right.

 

Dan

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What size wire makes this spring, or what piano string do you ask for if you order one?
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