Jump to content

Tooless Frame Removal Modification


Recommended Posts

I notice this is your first post - welcome!

 

I'm guessing you are new to the hobby/fanaticism...and I am

also guessing that you are confusing the removal/attaching of the

semi auto trigger frame - where the frame latch snaps down into

the recesses for the firing pin in the trigger frame mechanism, with

removal of the trigger frame on a full auto gun. On a full auto you

just set the selector to FULL AUTO,

depress the frame latch, hold the trigger back, and slide the frame

off - no tools required. Also Colts are very expensive and you have

everyone hyperventilating at the prospect of digging around in the

trigger frame with a screwdriver....

 

Stay tuned...

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

heloguy,

Welcome. Yep, I think you are referring to a semi lower. If not, then

as reconbob says, just set to full auto, depress the latch, pull the trigger and slide the receiver off.

On semi's you have to pull the frame halfway out, then shove a screwdriver in to depress the (?) whatever the hell is sticking up in there

http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/huh.gif

Damon and PK can modify this so its no longer an issue and the frame and receiver slide apart as they were intended to.

If it is a Colt you are talking about, good lord, don't go withing 10 feet of it with a screwdriver http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif

best, zamm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

heloguy,

 

Yeah, gettting the trigger frame off of a semi-auto can suck but I don't think it can be changed.

 

The firing pin has to be down far enough for the sear to catch it and that is why it is difficult to remove.

 

The full auto guns do not have a firing pin that protrudes from the bottom of the bolt, so they slide off very easy (the gun must be in "full auto" and the trigger held down.)

 

You do get used to disassembling and reassembling the semi-autos, and after a while it will be second nature to you.

 

Norm

 

PS- Welcome to the club! http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/buttkick.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes,im refering to a semiauto ,i put a 1928 lower on my gun and its getting to be a pain,taking it apart because you have to reach into it with a little screw driver to remove the upper from the lower .a picture of the tooless removal modification would help greatly.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is how I went about modifying my semiauto for toolless frame removal. Basically, the problem is the frame latch gets caught on the sear in the last tenth of an inch or so neccessitating a screwdriver or some other tool to depress the frame latch. Sooo... remove a small portion of the end of the frame rails like thus:

 

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/SMLE1918/Tommy/mod.jpg

 

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/SMLE1918/Tommy/mod002.jpg

 

Now all you have to do is depress the frame latch and pull the frame back while pulling the trigger to release the firing pin, no more tools needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used a Dremel and a hand file for mine. Make sure you put some tape on the outside of the receiver to protect the finish in case the Dremel catches http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/banghead.gif
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never seen this modification before. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/blink.gif

 

I guess you learn something new everyday! http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/slap.gif

 

Norm

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can not recommend removing any metal from the front of the frame rails as depicted in the second photo. This is the area that absorbs the recoil forces as the receiver is driven backwards against the frame, and the mod depicted will remove about 50% of the available steel; not a good idea.

 

Remove about 1/8” of the rails from the back of the receiver and you will achieve the desired results.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had read reference to this modification when I first purchased my Thompson but couldn't find any detailed information on how to go about performing the mod. I know of PK's reputation as a Thompson smith and highly recommend following any advice he gives. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/hail.gif That being said, I have fired over 5000 rounds through my Thompson since performing this modification and thus far can see no damage or ill effects from the modified frame rails. As with everything, your milage may vary, objects in mirror are closer than they appear, not intended for human consuption, etc. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/unsure.gif
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...