Wood Refinishing

[JSG]

I recently purchased a spare parts kit for my 1928A1 (manufactured in 1942) and the wood included is rather old and is need of refinishing. I'm just curious if anyone can recommend a good wood refinisher who not only will do a good job but will get the color right for that model firearm? I did read on this site the instructions for doing it yourself, however, I know my limitations and don't want to take the chance of doing, shall we say, a less-that-acceptable job. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks.

[darrylta]

Oh No

You've opened a big can of worms here

I'd recommend you do it yourself, if your not happy

with the results, just strip it and start over.

JM2cents,

Darryl

[JSG]

Thanks and sorry I didn't realize that this was a such a "controversial" topic. I thought, compared to other discussions about the Thompsons, this would be rather dull.

[dalbert]

Thanks and sorry I didn't realize that this was a such a "controversial" topic. I thought, compared to other discussions about the Thompsons, this would be rather dull.

 

JSG,

 

It's not so much controversial, as it is that everyone has a different opinion. It's like asking what kind of gun oil should I use, or what's the best concealed carry handgun, or what's the best apple pie recipe...

 

There was a good discussion on stock finishing not too long ago...Maybe someone will find the link.

 

David Albert

dalbert@sturmgewehr.com

[Merry Ploughboy]

Wood Refinishing is a topic item in the FAQ Section.

[LSU Tiger]

If it's just dirty, a good cleaning and application of oil may be all it needs. Could you post a few pictures?

[reconbob]

We finish or refinish Thompson wood here all the time. The NOS wood frequently has

no stain or oil at all, and when we refinish wood we usually have to strip the old finish.

Everyone has their favorite stain or color ranging from tan to a reddish mahogany.

Most people would apply some type of linseed oil as a final finish.

Here's the catch - it takes a lot of time to do this and the cost to have a skilled

worker do it all would probably cost more than new wood. Of course new wood will

not have the aged look but you get the idea. The only stuff you would need to do the

job are sandpaper, a razor blade, some steel wool, stain, and linseed oil. If you have

old wood you probably only need to clean off the old finish and re-apply linseed oil.

I would try this yourself. I am sure you could do a good job on your own as long

as you are careful not to sand or remove too much wood.

 

Bob

[Gio]

Bob is right on. I have refinished about 10 sets of Thompson wood and the secret is taking your time. It takes me about a week to strip, sand,stain and apply boiled linseed oil. The biggest part of the time is waiting for the wood to dry after every operation.

 

Take your time and pick out the stain that makes you happy, not what someone else likes. After it's done and back on the gun you will have the reward that you put your touch on your Thompson.

 

Good luck

 

Frank

[06AngusSG]

I would agree with both Bob and Frank. And I find it very accomplishing to do self performed work. WHat I would add is unless you are already very, very, VERY skilled with a power sander (doesn't matter what type) don;t use it for this. You can to easily take out to much wood and ruin the grip/stock's profile. Hand sanding the finish off is tedious but worth it.

 

Below is my before and after in my gun. The foregrip and butt are original Savage finish. The rear grip is M marked and was obviously to brown. I used a combo of Two stain colors and 2 coats of Tru-Oil to get the match in the second picture.

 

Jon

 

 

 

Edited October 18, 2015 by 06AngusSG

[JSG]

Thanks for the advise, I think I will try it considering I do have a lot of time since the wood I plan on refinishing is only a spare. The wood I have on the gun looks great as is in no need of refinishing. I'll post the photos when I'm done. Thanks again.

[JSG]

One more thing. Since I do have old wood and Bob thinks all I have to do is clean it and reapply linseed oil, I'm curious the best way to go about cleaning it. Thanks.

[Paladin601]

what are you hopeing to attain by the refinishing? What is the expected outcome?

[JSG]

The wood I have is dirty and dull. I would like to get it as close as I can to the great wood I have on the firearm now.

[Paladin601]

What I have used on dirty stocks with great success is a home made cleaner, followed by Finn wax (also called 1/3rd wax, Gunny Paste*)

 

The cleaner is made with equal amounts, mixed together, of Boiled linseed oil (BLO), turpentine and ammonia, applied with a scotch brite pad, then immediately wiped off. Do it outside, because the ammonia does get to you. Let Dry

 

The wax can be bought as Gunny Paste on Ebay or can be made. It's ingredients are equal amounts of Bee's wax, Boiled linseed oil and Turpentine. It is 1 lb of bees wax, 16oz of linseed oil and 16oz of turpentine. melt the wax first then add the linseed oil then the turpentine. Stir till it is all mixed. Use a flame less stove ( electric or inductive) I used a hot plate on low heat, to prevent ignition of the turpentine and BLO.

 

Pure Tung Oil (PTO), Teak oil, or any other finish oil can be substituted to get the desired fire or for the smell you desire.

 

If you prefer to instead of the Wax, you can can apply BLO or PTO straight, about 3 coats, it does not take much, rub in each coat, let sit for about an hour, then wipe off. let sit for 1 day,(depending on you climate, some areas take longer to dry, while a desert climate drys the fastest, humid climates take the longest. I have a stock that has been drying 2 wks now, because it has been very humid lately, and still has drying to do). Finally after the last coat, buff with a cotton cloth to the desire luster.

 

A light sanding can be used if desired, sand in the direction of the grain. Use 220 grit for a Military finish, and 400 grit for a finer finish. You can go even finer for a furniture finish. You may if desired use a wet/dry paper and wet sand the stock.

 

Dispose of rags and sandpaper right away, they can spontaneous combust and are also a fire hazard.

 

Bees Wax can be found online or at a crafts store. BLO and Turpentine can be found at the hardware store, TO can be found at a paint store.

 

Have fun,

[Bender]

I just redid my 1927a1 wood. Nothing matched(Im not sure if the lower was the one that came with the gun originally. It took about a week to redo it from beginning to end.

I wanted the wood to match my '43 SA M1 garand, which has a dark brown/reddish tint.

 

First I cleaned the wood with mineral spirits. Then made my own stain with RIT dye and denatured alcohol. Did as many coats as necessary to get the shade of the color I wanted. Then did a coat of Boiled Linseed Oil everyday for the next week.

 

It looks a little more red in person than it does in the pics....It came out exactly how I hoped.

 

http://i60.tinypic.com/2iax3lv.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/muxsug.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/5wbc52.jpg

http://i58.tinypic.com/11sp5js.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/sy3zp3.jpg

[MARK2112]

I have a new set from Dan block I need to finish, I asked him to leave them unfinished, just got to find the time to do it,Im going to mix dark walnut with red mahogany.ill probably have my retired father refinish them as he is a master at refinishing wood stocks.id give anything for an original colt set though but not at todays prices

[Paladin601]

I have a new set from Dan block I need to finish, I asked him to leave them unfinished, just got to find the time to do it,Im going to mix dark walnut with red mahogany.ill probably have my retired father refinish them as he is a master at refinishing wood stocks.id give anything for an original colt set though but not at todays prices

Using Minwax?

 

Reason I ask is that Minwax has a stain "Special Walnut" that is not quite as dark and the 'Dark Walnut" that allows the red to come out better. Just a suggestion.

[LSU Tiger]

I've used "Fairtrimmer's Military OX" stain with good results.

 

 

http://www.fairtrimmers.com/files/militaryox_instructionsonBrownells_cpyd030814.pdf

[reconbob]

I used to use Minwax but it seals the wood pores so the wood will not absorb

the linseed oil. Now we use Varathane which comes in a variety of colors. You

paint it on, wait about 20 min. Then wipe off the excess to expose the grain, then

let it dry, then apply thin coats of linseed oil.

But of course everyone has their own treatment...

 

Bob

[Orion]

The instructions on the FAQ section work very nicely, If the wood isn't really greasy or oil soaked I use Formby's Furniture Refinisher with #000 or #0000 steel wool. Then steam what dings and dents that I can lift out then let it dry for 24 hours. I have been using Minwax red mahogany for years and find it works well, I let it dry 24 hours between coats of stain.I use Tung Oil only for the top coat anywhere between 5-7 coats depending on how dry the wood is and again wait 24 hours between coats, lightly steel wool if needed and found it works well. Below are some before and after pictures of my recent M1A1 purchase, I replace the butt stock with a NOS butt stock the original one that came with the gun had too many nicks and dents.

 

BEFORE

 

AFTER

Edited October 21, 2015 by Orion

[Bender]

^Gorgeous and very nice job!

 

Im not gonna lie though....I love the character/look of the original stock better.

[Kilroy]

My recipe for what it's worth:

 

Take boiled linseed oil and soak a #0000 piece of steel wool and srub the wood down, set it to the side and let it sit for 20 minutes or so then wipe dry with a rag and let sit for 24 hours in a shaded out of the way place (garage?). Properly dispose of the oily rag!

 

Next day, repeat the previous step and maybe do it again on the third day.

 

After I'm happy with the boiled linseed oil scrubs I do another coat another day later that I rub the oil in by hand until the oil starts to get warm, then again allow it to sit for 20 minutes wipe dry and allow to sit for another 24 hours then repeat again the next day.

 

Takes a total of 4-5 days to do, but looks good when it's done. I do this with all my military stock. Stand by and I'll add pictures later

 

Here are the before's of the stocks:

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/Stock%20Refinishing/Oil%20Scrubs/Before_zpsc661b42c.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/Stock%20Refinishing/Oil%20Scrubs/Before1_zps6bfd6be4.jpg

 

First up pour a good amount of BLO onto the steel wool and it is important to keep the steel wool wet and scrub the stock with it. I don't use much pressure, just enough to work all be BLO into the nooks and crannies. After I let the BLO sit on the stocks for about 20 minutes and then wipe the stock dry and let it sit in a cool dry area for 24 hours.

 

Here are the stocks after the first scrub of BLO

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/Stock%20Refinishing/Oil%20Scrubs/FirstScrub4_zps6b99d2cb.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/Stock%20Refinishing/Oil%20Scrubs/FirstScrub1_zpsc8148f4e.jpg

 

Step two, is step one all over again.

 

Here are the stocks after the second scrub:

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/Stock%20Refinishing/Oil%20Scrubs/SecondScrub1_zpsab969ad8.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/Stock%20Refinishing/Oil%20Scrubs/SecondScrub2_zps7d442227.jpg

 

Step Three, I pour some BLO into my hand and rub it in by hand. I do this until the BLO starts to get warm. Let it sit for another 20 minutes, dry it, let it sit for 24 hours. Pictures:

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/Stock%20Refinishing/Oil%20Scrubs/SecondScrub2_zps7d442227.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/Stock%20Refinishing/Oil%20Scrubs/ThirdScrub3_zpscc350ef9.jpg

 

Repeat and Done

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/Stock%20Refinishing/Oil%20Scrubs/Wax_zps527e0a29.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/Stock%20Refinishing/Oil%20Scrubs/DSCN2175_zps80d787af.jpg

Edited October 21, 2015 by Kilroy