bigu2fan

bump

great video!

i agree!

Congrats!!

Got a chuckle out of that!

Folks: Here is a link to Sig Sauer .45 ACP ammo (230 grain FMJ) for .47 cents a round shipped. The only catch is estimated shipping date is 13 to 24 days out: https://www.opticsplanet.com/sig-sauer-elite-ball-45-acp-230gr-fmj-pistol-ammo-200-rounds.html I have never gotten anything from Optics Planet before, but figured I would give this a try given it's about 65 to 70+ cents a round elsewhere, not including shipping. Also, has anyone shot any of this Sig brand stuff? EDIT: Unfortunately, as of Nov. 9 the estimated shipping date now shows 2 to 4 months out.

That's a great looking display. Thanks for taking the time to share it!

Bump

I agree with CptCurls assessment

I have run Blazer Brass without issue. My go to brands are Sellier & Bellot, Prvi Partisan, and CCI Blazer Brass in 9mm and .45.

This sounds like a great idea. If you minimize/eliminate impact of the bolt with the rear of the receiver, wouldn’t that lessen the possibility of cracking a WH 1928 receiver and make the gun smoother to shoot? If the weight of the bolt is increased, would that not be a way to accomplish this? Tungsten inserts perhaps? This as been done to slow the ROF on mini Uzis. A person used to sell these on Uzitalk.com Further, M11/9 bolts have been made entirely of tungsten, doubling the bolt weight to achieve Uzi-like ROF. This has been well documented on Uzitalk as well. Would tungsten inserts in an M1A1 Bolt (modified in the way reconbob suggested to function in 1928 guns) be a way to keep the bolts from impacting the rear of the receiver on WH 1928s, thus minimizing the possibility of cracks? It also would slow the ROF. Or I could be completely incorrect.’just trying to get another idea out there.

Hi! I have a nice one, a 1928, for sale. Here is the post where I have listed it. Lots of photos on the ad as well. http://www.machinegunboards.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24581

Robert & Bridgeport28A1: thanks for the information!

What would a ballpark price be for one of these guns? Less than a WWII gun but more than a WH gun I would think?

Folks: I have been in the market for a WWII-era M1A1 TSMG, but was approached by a gentleman with a transferable Philadelphia Ordnance M1A1 TSMG. The photos of the gun look very good. REALLY good. I also reached out to Reconbob, and he was very gracious to provide information on these, including noting that they are made of 4130 steel, which I was impressed by. He said that there are very few of these out as transferables. I know the Philadelphia Ordnance 80 percent receivers have a good reputation in terms of post samples and display guns. Reconbob said the pre-1986 transferables should be "plug-and-play" with WWII era parts. The WWII-era guns are known entities, but these transferable Philadelphia Ordnance guns are tough to find information on. I am trying to find out if anyone has owned and shot one of these long term to get their thoughts. The only other TSMGs I am familiar with are the West Hurley guns, which I am not seeking, the Chasen guns, and the Martin Pearl guns, which I have read have issues (no first hand knowledge, just what I have read). Again, the photos I got of this transferable Philadelphia Ordnance gun look very good, and Reconbob's information make it seem like a winner. Has anyone owned one of these for awhile a put a few cases of ammo through them? There is NO disrespect intended toward anyone, but I am trying to get as educated as possible given the transfer times and cost involved. What would be a ball park price? Thanks very much in advance for any help you can give. --bigu2fan

Good looking product!

I am open to offers on this gun. Maybe we can make a deal?

Good morning gents! I am writing to see whether there are any issues/concerns with firing live .45 ACP ammo through a TSMG with a blank adapted barrel? Supposedly the blank adapter process required the interior 1/2 inch or so to be threaded. Are there any issues with firing standard ammo though one of these blank adapted barrels in terms of accuracy or concerns that the threaded area somehow could get filled with lead and have to be cleaned like a compensator?

Thanks! I got the photos and responded. Can you please provide some photos of your M1 that are closer up and with better lighting? One of the right hand side of the receiver was out of focus. I am particularly interested in closeup photos of the left, right, top and bottom of receiver (interior with bolt and recoil spring assembly removed). Also particularly interested in a close-up photo showing the area where the barrel screws into the receiver. Can you please provide photos similar to those that I posted for the 1928? I was just using an iPhone and took the gun outside into my back yard to get some good lighting. Thanks very much in advance for any help you can give. Really looking to trade for an M1/M1A1 that is not a rewatt or reweld and that does not have any police department markings or heavy buffing and/or pitting. I would prefer to steer away from a gun that has been blank adapted. I also have a Colt M16A1 lower if that is of interest to anyone.

OK, I added some higher resolution versions of the photos with the front handguard off to the dropbox link in the original post. Also one of the actuator.

Frank: Thanks for your reply! I had read that article prior to posting this question. Given that the M1A1 bolt seems to produce a slightly slower rate of fire (all other things being equal) than the M1 bolt, then it would seem to make sense that if you increase the weight of the bolt handle used with the M1A1 bolt then that would work in favor of slowing the cyclic rate even more. I have closely followed the various threads on Uzitalk.com where a gentleman is selling varying bolts of varying design for the M11/9 that reduce the cyclic rate to about that of an Uzi. These bolts are made of tungsten and they basically double the weight of a stock M11/9 bolt. These bolts are being used in stock M11/9 uppers, as opposed to Lage uppers. It’s pretty impressive. These solid Tungsten bolts were Close to $1,000 if I remember correctly. This work with tungsten bolts got me to thinking about tungsten bolt handles for the M1A1 bolt.

While not the exact photos you asked for, these are the ones I have with me at the Moment. One might be a duplicate. I am using my phone so its tough with this screen so much smaller than my desktop computer.

This might be a completely crazy/impractical idea, but has anyone tried or considered making a tungsten bolt handle for the M1/M1A1 bolt to increase weight? I ask this because if it increased weight a bit it theoretically could slow ROF. In my experience, having guns with a slower rate of fire, such as an Uzi or Swedish K, tend to be better in subgun competitions because of the ability to pull singles. Any thoughts on this or has anyone tried this? Just thinking out loud, which can be a dangerous thing. I do know that tungsten is very expensive. Bigu2fan

I can post some additional photos if you like with the handguard off. Thanks for all your kind words guys!

I have had good luck with CCI Blazer Brass and S&B.