58healeybn6

I have a 1927 Kahr made several years ago. I switched out the Kahr rear sight for an original Lyman sight. I kept the Kahr sight base and just switched out the ladder mechanism. As I recall, the only thing that I had to do was make a new spring plunger to hold the Lyman sight in the correct upright position. Hope this helps.

CJR, I would suggest that you get the PDF from Deerslayer, he has always been right on.

I looked in Tracy Hill’s “The Ultimate Thompson” book and there are drawings of the original Thompson parts, which includes the vertical front grip. The problem is however, some of the dimensions are missing; whether on purpose or not I don’t know. I purchased an after market grip from Sarco, which was fairly close and reconfigured it as close as possible to the drawing dimensions. I did have to drill the bolt hole at a bit of a different angle because the front grip on the Kahr Thompson is not at all like the originals. If you would like, I can trace my grip and send it to you. I also had to carefully widen the mounting slot but if you are a decent woodworker, it is not difficult to do.

You also want to make sure that your bolt and interior surfaces are smoothed out and lubed. I use a light coating of lithium grease and oil. Also, get rid of those d......d heavy springs. I have been using the EZ Pull springs for two years now with no problems. Personally, I think that they give the bolt, firing pin, and extractor a lot less abuse too. Less hammering. My humble opinion. I also reload too, so I load just heavy enough to cycle the bolt and get good accuracy. Less wear and tear.

I installed a 1928 butt stock and original metal on mine. There is not much end to end play, but more side play than I liked. I have a drill press and drilled and tapped two holes for 4-40 set screws about 1 1/2” apart in the slotted part of the butt stock metal I screwed them in so that I had minimal side play and lock tighted them in. Worked great.

I have not used the 100 round drum; the 50 adds enough weight. All the drums are finicky until you get the bugs worked out of them. They’re a bit of a pain in the ass to use. I have used mine a couple of times, but prefer a 20 round mag. My humble opinion.

If it indeed is a detachable type of stock from a 1928 and it is missing the mounting hardware, those are sometimes available on ebay, but more often on Gunbroker. Make sure that you buy from someone in the states; a lot of east european stuff out there. Make sure that it has the spring, button, and hardware with it.

I presume that the stock has a push button release at the rear of the wrist, making it for a 1921/1928 or 1928A1. If it has a crossbolt at the wrist, it would be for a 1928A1. If it does not have a crossbolt, it could be for a 1921 or 1928. Either way it should fit right onto the 1927A1 receiver. I did that with mine; fit with no problem.

The charging handle on the 1927A’s are entirely different from the actuator knob on a 1928. The 1927 is a separate piece that fits into the hole in the bolt that the firing pin slides through. It has to be separate to fit over the firing pin which is held in the bolt by retaining pins. The 1928 that your father carried has an actuator (with attached knob).which fits over the bolt. The 1928 fires from an open bolt and the 1927 fires from a closed bolt. Two entirely different systems. That is why our 1927s are loose and the 1928s are not. When a 1927 is disassembled, the knob is pulled up through the hole in the receiver. In a 1928, the actuator with knob is removed from the inside of the receiver. Your charging handle (knob) has to be somewhat loose to slide in. My bluing on my steel receiver is worn also.

Looks good. Now, put a thin coating of linseed oil on after the stain is good and dry. Rub the linseed oil in and let it dry for a week or so rubbing it in occasionally. Repeat this proceedure for several months until the oil doesn’t soak in. Let dry and rub out. The oil will eventually oxidize, giving the stock that nice aged reddish hue that you see on old military weapons or on the original Thompsons. I have an original Thompson detachable stock (no reinforcing bolt) on my 1927. It really looks good with the aged linseed oil finish. I have also replaced the hokey rear sight with an original Lyman 1928 sight, replaced the AO front vertical grip with a very close to original 1928 vertical front grip, modified the upper receiver to allow removal of the lower without any additional tool, and installed EZ-pull springs from Dan Block. Also modified my drum so that it runs smoothly. Shoot with no problems.

Sorry, since I reload I know by factory ammunition. You could probably look on the web and see if there is anything out there. Try Midway USA.

OK, I see what you mean now. I looked at my parts break down in my owner’s manual and I see that the pin is labeled “firing pin pilot”. I can’t think of any reason that it should peen either. I have no evidence of that on mine. However, as I said earlier, I run a reduced load through mine, so I would not have a heavy recoil anyway. I did some tests a year or so age and posted the results; I did some chronograph tests with factory ammo and the velocities were greater than a 1911 because of the increased barrel length. With the reduced load EZ-Pull springs, I wanted less recoil. That being said, I can’t see any reason for your peening unless, as you said, it’s firing out of battery, but even then, it shouldn’t have that effect. Maybe just crap steel. To answer your other question, no, they did not give any explanation. Probably don’t want to admit it.

I’m not sure I understand what you mean by the “firing pin pilot”? Do you mean the hole in the bolt that the firing pin goes through? If so, could the pin be slightly bent or perhaps a bit too long? The pierced primers would seem to indicate this plus the heavy firing pin spring would exacerbate this. How much of the pin protrudes from the bolt when the front part of the firing pin body is flush with the face of the bolt body? As you probably know, the inside face of the receiver acts as the stop for the forward motion of the firing pin. Regardless, if you send it back to AutoOrdnance with a list of your issues, they may fix them as well as the double tap. My first 1927 had a multi-fire issue and they fixed it.

I doubt very much if it’s weak springs. I have the EZ-pull springs on mine and it runs fine. I can pull the actuator back with one finger. Have not had any problem with that at all. For what it’s worth, I load my own 45 ACP, and I run a reduced load through my 1927. Accuracy is very good and recoil is light. All I need is enough recoil to retract the bolt all the way and to seat a new round. Of course, if you still have the warrantee in effect, you probably want to keep it stock. My personal opinion is that the very heavy forward slamming of the bolt against the receiver with the factory springs can’t be doing it any good.

If it is a new gun, call Auto-Ordnance and tell them your problems; especially that it double/triple tapped. They don’t like to hear that. They should give you a pre-paid number to return it. Some of their customer service guys are jerks and some are pretty decent. If the gun is used, all bets are off. I personally am not a fan of aluminum guns, but that’s just me. Good luck.