MGTedFL

Congrats on that..... I submitted all of mine as an individual, as I failed to properly execute an updated Schedule A, prior to 1/31/23. While all the firearms were in my possession prior to this date, I missed the chance to properly document that, and chose not to generate the document after 1/31/2023.

Guys, I told ya 'all ..... the vintage photo (scan) is the key. Separate Priority Mail envelopes....probably a waste of funds. But.....I just got back the first of 17 E-F1's, a TBT TMP45, approved in 17 days. E-filed on 5/21. Let's see about the rest......

Hey H, I limit my FP cards to 6 months….but my photo is almost 8 years old. With over 50 stamps using that photo, no issues yet. I think they know I haven’t changed a bit. But then again, the photo is above the neck…and they didn’t ask my wife FWIW, Ted

Personally, since three separate courts have ruled in favor of plaintiff with injunction, and one has put the case up for expedited review..... IMO, changes to the current status-quo are coming. Just look at what SCOTUS recently did in the EPA ruling..... WGL has reported the 250K registrations have been received.....compare that to the estimated 20-30 million braced pistols out there among the populus..... Keep your fingers crossed. Maybe a actual win for the good guys, for a change?

Just curious. Have you received any approvals yet?

It may seem over the top to submit 17 envelopes, but here goes my rationale..... If your cards are not received in 10 days, then the application is cancelled. No second chance, especially since I literally waited until the final week to send mine in. I was hoping that more rational heads, or at least a Federal Judge would intervene and make this go away. As a retired 25+ year veteran of Federal Service....I should have known better. I had a number of friends have their FP cards go "missing" ....start all over again..... what a PITA. With over 100+ stamps, over 40 years of collecting....I have seen every possible type of FUBAR, with BATFE. With each set of cards and control sheet in an individual envelope, each with a tracking number....if anything got FUBAR'd along the way, at most I lose one or two "free" $200 stamps. Not a high price to pay with the stakes so high......$3400 in free stamps. BTW, our local Sheriff does not have FP scanning, but the cards are free and the ladies working the FP office all know me on a first name basis; and let me schedule back-to-back appointments. The have rolled several hundred cards for me over the years..... That's my story.....and I'm sticking to it :)

.....and 17 forms later, CLEO's, 34 FP cards, 17 separate Priority Envelopes, and a whole new safe for my soon to be new "SBR's"....I'm betting the thing will be overturned, given the recent GOA success. Maybe they will wise-up and drop SBR, SBS and silencers from the NFA. I doubt that will happen, but, that will immediately be followed by another Amnesty period for select fire. OK, back to sleep......

FWIW, I have a MP40 rear sight that appears to have two spot-welds, where it was removed from the tube. My MP38 sight has two countersunk screw holes for mounting. Agree that mounting a rear sight to a milled receiver like the MP38 is different than mounting to a rolled, crimped and spotwelded MP40 tube. Ted

I had eight F4's approved in one batch, from one examiner...all with the same approval date, and rubber-stamp signature. Had to get a bank loan to pay the transfer fees to my SOT. Submission dates spanned 16 months. Each paper F4 application had two FP cards, pictures, apps in duplicate and a check....as each was submitted separately (MG, SBR and cans) ....go figure......

Please add me to the list as well, should any additional tools become available. Thank You.

All valid comments....appreciated. I used to tell myself "no safe queens" ! If you don't shoot it, then sell or trade it. That is the case for 95+% of my guns. For example, when I buy a pre-ban AK, I'm looking for the well-cared for shooter......not the perfect NIB with all accy's, in the box..... that has never been shot. I can enjoy, and not lose 20% value just to shoot it. I respect NIB collectors, but that's not for me. Kinda' like the difference between boat-owners.......and true boaters. I assume the experience of shooting a correct and intact 1921 Tommy would be different than my 28WH or M1, given the very different bolt and recoil set-up. My Savage M1 is my favorite, despite the occasional burns on my finger-tips. So, I will shoot the '21, carefully....just not as often as the workhorses. Maybe on special occasions - or to share with a fellow range rat who also has never had the chance to shoot an original 1921, as others have done for me over the years with their one-off's. Bottom-line, the refinished sides are very well done (I'm not experienced enough to know the difference, but was fully advised, by the seller), the butt-stock is correct, as are all internals. It looks like a well-cared for shooter. I thought I got it at a fair price, for a Colt. Seller made a few bucks (I checked the Hammer price at Morphy's) and I agree with the other poster, that it did seem to go low at Morphy's in 10-2018. As mentioned by TD, it was one of four behind glass at the sellers table, at the Creek. The other three were 1928A1's, offered in the high 20's, so the Colt seemed like best the overall deal in the mid 30's, and could be e-file F3'd. After talking with the seller for a while, he figured I wasn't just another a goober who wanted to hold and finger-f**k his girl, and was serious about buying it..... So, he let me get a closer look, pull the stock, check the numbers matched and slid-off the lower to assure me no-one slipped in some 28 parts..... It is now at my SOT here in FL, and maybe with a little luck, I can take it home in 7-8 months.......

I just purchased Colt TSMG #10163 at the "final" Creek a few weeks back (10/2021). So, just to make sure that when I arrived at my FFL/SOT to disassemble the gun correctly, and inspect it..... I watched Ian's 1921 TSMG video. I just about fell off my chair when I saw him pan past the serial number...….10163. It is a very nice gun with no significant faults, other than being nicely refinished on the sides and top and a few light marks on the stock. I will visit it regularly while in NFA jail at my SOT Trying to decide if I want to actually shoot it, as I have several other TSMG "shooters" : 1928 WH, M1 Savage and M1 WH, which I shoot every chance I get. Never had any issues, as I only use new, quality ammo like S&B SB45A, Speer Lawman or Magtech….. all 230gr. FMJ. I would certainly swap-out for a 1928A1 bolt, actuator, guide and spring for the OEM internal Colt parts....my main concern would be to damage the barrel. Decisions, decisions, decisions...….

Holy s**t, Batman. I wish I had a room secure enough to display my toys. They'd be on the back and side walls, with the recliner right in the middle and the 60" flat screen in front, so I could watch my beloved Indy 500, surrounded by the "girls" Alas, hey must remain locked-up, only coming out to play.....on occasion.....

Yes the second sear notch, first upgraded on the E3 (and the second and third notches in the Danish contract op-rods) helps prevent runaways if the recoil stroke is not long enough to reset the sear, but enough to extract the next round. A problem that can occur with any open bolt gun, especially a fixed-firing pin open bolt gun. This can be caused by under-powered ammo, a dirty gas system and other mechanical issues. By "new style bolts" I assume you are referring to US Ordnance produced and coded bolts? Yes, they are all 100% compatible, but USO bolts rare and expensive. A good original NOS bolt is close to $500 these days. I'm still kicking myself for passing on two new US Ord bolts someone offered me several years ago at a good price. There are very few parts that can not be interchanged between the E1, E3, E4 (Mod 0 & Mod 1) and the E6. For example, you can not put a E3,4,6 barrel on a pig with the E1 hand guard on it, as the handle gets in the way. I have one E3 barrel with no handle just for this. With a stripped receiver and the required parts you can build any version you wish, and mix and match your favorite features into a hybrid pig. I do this all the time. Just about every time I take my pig out to play, she is set-up differently. Franken-pig rules.....

I used to see this regularly with my "B" and "A" model early Shrike uppers, when I first started shooting them. I shoot them off a M16 RR, as well as a RDIAS. While I agree with the issues of of the bullet tip catching the receiver front, especially the steel core XM855, the other issue is that the Shrike has barely enough energy to fully cycle and then strip the next round from the links. There is nowhere near the energy cycling the gun as in the M13-linked M60. Using a Terry Rood link stretcher helped solve the issue. I stretch the front loop just enough to let the round proceed without getting caught. IMO, that is what is happening in your pics.The rear of the shell case is not clearing past the front loop of the link. Just like good quality, properly functioning mags are the key to subgun success, properly functioning links are the key to a beltfed. So now....here is my personal secret sauce to Shrike success. First, use the correct links, as there are at least two different variants of M27 links. See my link to Bill Guiette's page below. Ones with holes,(Type I) ones without holes (Type II) with a slightly different pitch (more space between the rounds). Just ask Bill..... I have his universal linkers with interchangeable plates (M1 for 30-06, M1919 IDF, M13 and M27). I use the solid, parked Type II links, once shot Mil-surp, from Sarge's Drop Zone @5K for $200. They get cleaned, tumbled to smooth the rough edges and stretched with Terry's link stretcher. I only use new LC XM855 62gr, 5.56 ammo, with the Shrike set to the largest gas port, and a H3 buffer with the Shrike oversized recoil spring. Somtimes I give the belts a light misting with Ace Hardware brand Silicone spray. It is a "dry" silicone, not the wet & foamy CRC Wallmart crap. At the end of the shoot, I use a large wand-type magnet and pick them up, and the process begins again, less the stretching. Don't get me wrong, I love my Shrikes, but you really gotta tweek them to get them to run consistent. Honestly, they are now among my favorite guns to shoot. I have one set-up with Terry's M249 buttstock kit and other accessories. The A-model with the round hand guard went to Tom Cassidy, who modded the HG to fit an original Minimi grip. This combined with a Terry Rood Savitt stock on a AR carbine tube, with a 12" barrel looks like an early para M249. On the other hand, if I don't want to deal with this crap ..... I can load up any crap milsurp 7.62X51 I can find, into my old IDF links and soot the M1919A4 all day long with never a stoppage. FWIW, Ted https://www.weguiette.com/tech-info.html