marks

Was curious if anyone is headed to the SAR show. I haven't been since 2002 so I got all my res made to fly there and maybe warm up my northwest bones in the AZ sun for 06. I had alot of fun last time except for getting sore feet. This time I have all 3 days blocked if needed so that might help. Does anyone know of any must see tommy vendors or display tables I shouldn't mis?

Sorry if this question has been flogged to death... Is there any appreciable differences between a 28 & 28A1? I was thinking of buying one of the 28A1 kits that seem to be around (from R-Guns for example) to have as GI issue spares for my WH28. The only thing I can see from any pictures is the 28A1 kits seem to have an oiler I dont believe my gun has. Other than that do the parts interchange? I looked in the FAQ here and dont see anything. I also have both of Frank's tommy books and don't really see clearly defined 28/28A1 differences unless I'm blind (possible). http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif Any input appreciated, marks

QUOTE (railroader @ Jun 17 2006, 03:22 PM) What kind of primers are being used with some of these loads, or does it matter? In my Speer manuals, all they reference is CCI primers. Alliant powders references those and Fed 150's, which I can't seem to get my hands on. As long as I'm on the subject, would it make a difference in presssures by subsituting one primer for another, such as Winchester large pistol (magnum) primers when the manual has called for CCI 300, or Fed 150? I've always used Winchester large pistol primers for standard or magnum loads. Never had a problem. I know the Speer manual says use their primers if for no other reason that's what their data used for testing. I went away from Speer primers a long time ago because I think they are harder to seat than the Winchester ones. Just a personal perference.

Doing some reloads with my typical .45 powder and was wondering if anyone has a favorite tommy load using W231. Suppose I'm open to other suggestions as well however 231 is what I usually have laying around and is what I use in my other 45's. Any suggestions?

QUOTE (full auto 45 @ Mar 20 2006, 06:12 PM) I ordered one shipped direct to Merle. Now THAT is funny! http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/laugh.gif

I'd go with a westy 1928. But thats just me.

Hi everybody! I'm marks. I love to shoot but since I'm management I don't get to go near as much as I'd like. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/sad.gif Make it a point to go out 2 or 3 times a year though to 'blow off some steam'. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/ph34r.gif

I'm gonna pardon a turkey and eat prime rib today! Happy Thanksgiving fellow tommy driver's! http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/tongue.gif

QUOTE (Jay Baker @ Nov 15 2005, 06:58 AM) Where's Buddy when you need him? He's not here. LOL! http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif

Is this a joke? Personally, I've enjoyed reading your posts.

Be interesting to see what PK and Deerslayer could do with it. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/wink.gif

I do shoot all jacketed stuff but don't lean on it like I'm inclined too on other guns. 50 rd L drum dumps are about the most between cool downs.

The current discussions about no more barrel importation got me thinking... Is it even possible to wear out a tommy barrel? How many rounds would it take? Assuming the barrel was new could you even erode a throat too make a difference or make the barrel BER during normal use? How else could you wear one out? Was just wondering.

E-mail sent. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/smile.gif

Took a few of the 'kids' out for a 4 day shoot-a-thon in eastern Oregon. At one point during the trip, a normal cocking to show clear of the WH 1928, a piece of metal fell out of the weapon. Upon further inspection it was revealed that the piece was broken off from the actuator. See pic... http://www.cascadeaccess.com/~marks/west_hurley_actuator.jpg So..... my question is.... is that normal breakage? From the looks of the break it wasn't like that for some time as there is no discoloration like I would expect from a crack that was cracked and then broke later. The bolt and blish lock are both marked Savage but the actuator is not marked as far as I can see. The gun was built in 1982. Is this one of those cases where one of those dreaded "west hurley" parts just failed? Is this a normal failure after XX rounds? Inspection shows no other damage to the weapon from the failure. FWIW, my West Hurley has always run great and It hasn't even been to PK yet! LOL! Parts falling out of the gun however are definately cause for concern so I thought I'd throw this post out there and see what you guys think. Lastly... Anyone know where I can buy a new actuator? Been thinking about buying one of the Ohio Ordnance kits but at this point all I need is a new actuator. Thoughts? Any and all input appreciated. Thanks, marks