marks

Was curious if anyone is headed to the SAR show. I haven't been since 2002 so I got all my res made to fly there and maybe warm up my northwest bones in the AZ sun for 06. I had alot of fun last time except for getting sore feet. This time I have all 3 days blocked if needed so that might help. Does anyone know of any must see tommy vendors or display tables I shouldn't mis?

Sorry if this question has been flogged to death... Is there any appreciable differences between a 28 & 28A1? I was thinking of buying one of the 28A1 kits that seem to be around (from R-Guns for example) to have as GI issue spares for my WH28. The only thing I can see from any pictures is the 28A1 kits seem to have an oiler I dont believe my gun has. Other than that do the parts interchange? I looked in the FAQ here and dont see anything. I also have both of Frank's tommy books and don't really see clearly defined 28/28A1 differences unless I'm blind (possible). http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif Any input appreciated, marks

QUOTE (railroader @ Jun 17 2006, 03:22 PM) What kind of primers are being used with some of these loads, or does it matter? In my Speer manuals, all they reference is CCI primers. Alliant powders references those and Fed 150's, which I can't seem to get my hands on. As long as I'm on the subject, would it make a difference in presssures by subsituting one primer for another, such as Winchester large pistol (magnum) primers when the manual has called for CCI 300, or Fed 150? I've always used Winchester large pistol primers for standard or magnum loads. Never had a problem. I know the Speer manual says use their primers if for no other reason that's what their data used for testing. I went away from Speer primers a long time ago because I think they are harder to seat than the Winchester ones. Just a personal perference.

Doing some reloads with my typical .45 powder and was wondering if anyone has a favorite tommy load using W231. Suppose I'm open to other suggestions as well however 231 is what I usually have laying around and is what I use in my other 45's. Any suggestions?

QUOTE (full auto 45 @ Mar 20 2006, 06:12 PM) I ordered one shipped direct to Merle. Now THAT is funny! http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/laugh.gif

I'd go with a westy 1928. But thats just me.

Hi everybody! I'm marks. I love to shoot but since I'm management I don't get to go near as much as I'd like. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/sad.gif Make it a point to go out 2 or 3 times a year though to 'blow off some steam'. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/ph34r.gif

I'm gonna pardon a turkey and eat prime rib today! Happy Thanksgiving fellow tommy driver's! http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/tongue.gif

QUOTE (Jay Baker @ Nov 15 2005, 06:58 AM) Where's Buddy when you need him? He's not here. LOL! http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif

Is this a joke? Personally, I've enjoyed reading your posts.

Be interesting to see what PK and Deerslayer could do with it. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/wink.gif

I do shoot all jacketed stuff but don't lean on it like I'm inclined too on other guns. 50 rd L drum dumps are about the most between cool downs.

The current discussions about no more barrel importation got me thinking... Is it even possible to wear out a tommy barrel? How many rounds would it take? Assuming the barrel was new could you even erode a throat too make a difference or make the barrel BER during normal use? How else could you wear one out? Was just wondering.

E-mail sent. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/smile.gif

Took a few of the 'kids' out for a 4 day shoot-a-thon in eastern Oregon. At one point during the trip, a normal cocking to show clear of the WH 1928, a piece of metal fell out of the weapon. Upon further inspection it was revealed that the piece was broken off from the actuator. See pic... http://www.cascadeaccess.com/~marks/west_hurley_actuator.jpg So..... my question is.... is that normal breakage? From the looks of the break it wasn't like that for some time as there is no discoloration like I would expect from a crack that was cracked and then broke later. The bolt and blish lock are both marked Savage but the actuator is not marked as far as I can see. The gun was built in 1982. Is this one of those cases where one of those dreaded "west hurley" parts just failed? Is this a normal failure after XX rounds? Inspection shows no other damage to the weapon from the failure. FWIW, my West Hurley has always run great and It hasn't even been to PK yet! LOL! Parts falling out of the gun however are definately cause for concern so I thought I'd throw this post out there and see what you guys think. Lastly... Anyone know where I can buy a new actuator? Been thinking about buying one of the Ohio Ordnance kits but at this point all I need is a new actuator. Thoughts? Any and all input appreciated. Thanks, marks

Normally just shoot my handloads in the tommy but I'm contemplating getting some Wolf ammo. Can anyone provide some feedback on this stuff? Does it cycle fine in a Thompson? At $140/1000 it's hard to pass up. Thoughts?

I don't see a problem with the guys ad. First off, he's being up front and not trying be sneaky about what the offer will be. While I personally think 50% of value might be a stretch, is 70%? Considering he has a bunch of his OWN money tied up in a gun that has to transfer in and then back out of inventory is 70% of current value that far out of line? And how long will his money be tied up here? 6 months? A year? More? Should the dealer pay top internet (cough) dollar and set on the gun how long before he recoups his money with a profit? While I wouldn't personally sell any of my own hardware at a discount as most likely none of you will there are always people out there that will for a variety of reasons. I know of a dealer that makes two offers, one is to consign the weapon finding a buyer and handling paperwork for $150. His second offer is to buy the weapon outright for 60% of current 'internet' selling prices. Everything is up front, no monkey business. He's been in the biz a long time and does plenty of it. If the guy over at Sturm (who I'm assuming is a dealer) can find any takers I say more power to him. I hope he makes a bunch of money. That is after all why a dealer is in the business right? Too make money? I'm not necessarily saying you guys are implying this but why do so many people expect dealers to eat shit and bark at the moon when it comes to making money on gun deals or sales where the use of their FFL is required? As a previous FFL/SOT, I use to run into this once in a while. People would try to squeeze me down hard on my fees when I was reasonable to begin with. It was almost as irritating as neighboring FFL's cutting each other's throats fee wise to make a sale. One local guy (with a storefront no less) does title one sales for $10 over cost. Rediculous. Just a little Friday rant from marks. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/smile.gif

I HIGHLY doubt ITAR is going to budge on their fees regardless of any congressional pressure. I don't discourage trying to work the system of course but I just don't see it happening. I'm also not suprised to hear ATF is starting to call 07/02's and inquire as to what they are actually building. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to see how many 07's are out there (last I heard around 5000 or so) and also see there are not nearly that many actually engaged in the business of manufacturing. IMHO. FWIW.

I'm gonna be a little different here... While I'd lean towards the M16, I'm gonna go with a Flemming sear for the HK family of rifle's. With one you can build up a G3, G3K, 51, 51K, MP5,MP5SD... Well, you get the idea. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif

This is the exact legislation I'm expecting to see come down the pike in Oregon. Our lawmakers have just started session and it's only a matter of time before they try for an Oregon AWB. Ginny Burdick has said she was going to do it last year and and now she apparently chairs a commitee that can get this sort of B.S. to the floor. What's even more scarry is if the nonsense they write up as proposed law goes even further than the clintonista's fed law did in 94. With the Oregon Firearm Federation's help, I'll be watching very close. I'm about ready to say screw this state and move to Idaho.

Thanks for the range report Liberator. Sounds like nothing's wrong that isn't fixable. I had to laugh a little bit (not at your expense) but your notes about the sights coming loose and a screw going away reminded me of an outing with an AM180 I use to have where I was always 'fixing' something. One day after dealing with repeated jams I removed the drum and the feed block just fell off. The look on my face was apparently priceless. Now when equiptment breaks down due to 'use' it's affectionately referred to (by shooting buds and I) as "the wheels are coming off" time to put it away.

Probably got pulled because of a new unwritten 'rule'. 140K? Was the dude going to throw in a couple pre-sample m249's? http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/huh.gif

Liberator, Congrats! http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif I've seen the ads for Kahr's SBR but never heard from anyone who has one. Can you post some pics or comment on fit and finish? Thought about buying a Kahr SBR a while back but ended up coming across a WH M1 at a good price so I did the form 1 SBR route on that one instead. Regarding shooting it, if it were me I'd go out and blast away! Wouldn't personally see any reason to change parts unless it doesn't run. Have fun, and by all means, keep us posted. marks

QUOTE (Z3BigDaddy @ Jan 11 2005, 07:20 PM) I don't think putting it someplace that "you" do not control is a wise choice... jmho Blaine aka Z3BigDaddy It's my understanding that ATF has no problem with keeping NFA weapons in a safety deposit box. You do have control because YOU have one of the keys. Regarding long term storage.... It would seem to me that as long as the guns are not subjected to the elements a good coat of oil on everything would be sufficient. Just my 2 cents

QUOTE (Hawkeye_Joe @ Jan 10 2005, 10:04 PM) And dont' worry ...Westies are Thompsons..... Uh oh! Now you've done it! http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif