Garrett

I've got two 20-round mags - one is marked NE-1 one is unmarked I've got one 12-round mag it is unmarked

I have two different stocks for my M50. The takedown screw on both loosens up when shooting. Reliability goes down quickly when the screw is not tight. I've found that blue locktite works very well to cure this. It's not a big deal to break the locktite to disassemble the gun. I think you're thinking the other way around: blue is "medium" strength and red is "high" strength. Blue has always worked fine for my takedown screw.

Mine appears to have a "P1" and an "H2" as well as a couple of punch marks on the receiver (I assume these are for hardness testing). I'm not sure if mine is considered a "commercial" or a "military" gun, but it has a parkerized finish and fewer fins on the barrel (14 fins?). It came with the 1-piece bumper. It is in the 56000 s/n range. The stock has a couple of very old pieces of tape with a rack number stenciled on them. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/Misc%20NFA/DSC07481.jpg

QUOTE (tony k @ Jul 14 2006, 05:31 PM)For my gun, I needed to very, very gently squeeze the corners of the angled upper section of the mag, which were too wide and prevented the mag from locking in; My mags do this as well. The mags do insert fully into the gun, but the action bar is obviously dragging on the mags. You can see where it is hitting in the picture below. Adjust accordingly, but be careful not to over-adjust. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/DSC02850a.jpg

QUOTE (DC Chris @ Jul 15 2006, 08:08 PM)The nomex supressor cover from Cobray is for a two stage can - I am looking for a better fit single stage cover for my CAC-9. The leather / nomex cover from Beep's Pouches is the only way to go. I have a single stage nomex from Cobray or RPB (I forget which), but it is so slick the can will still turn and unscrew under your hand. I've had a number of baffle strikes while using the old-style cover, as the can would still unscrew. This unit laces up tight. I haven't had any baffle strikes since switching. I kind of like how it gives a can the 2-stage look as well. http://beepspouches.com/dscaccover.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/ISSMC2004cropped021.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/DSC02033.jpg

The screw itsself looks fine. It appears to be the older style screw. Oddly, the stock has the reinforcement pin through it, making it a later stock with an earlier screw. It's possible this was done in the factory... maybe. What is different is the second takedown screw in front of the magwell. While it is possible that this was done at the factory, I don't remember ever seeing this configuration. I wonder if the lug that the screw mates to had its threads stripped, and the owner just ran a screw to the other lug. Or perhaps the screw would not stay in tight so someone thought to try two screws. While my takedown screw tends to loosen, I find a drop of blue locktite takes care of this. In any case, I'd investigate more closely before buying. You may be able to talk the buyer down somewhat by telling him you will have to spend more money to get a "correct" stock, etc.

I've got one and it seems to work fine. I did have problems at first though. I would get nosedives into the feedramp. I had to open up the front of the feed lips a little and the problem went away. FWIW, here's the markings on the various mags: Top is a 12 round mag, middle is an original 20 rd mag, and bottom is one of the new aftermarket mags. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/DSC03216.jpg Side view of same mags: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/DSC03217.jpg

They look a little different. If I had to guess, I'd say they were reworked Thompson mags. For that price, I'd buy more of Ken Christie's 30 round mags. It wouldn't let me hotlink to the picture on the website. So try looking here.

Tony, you have a really nice, minty gun. I wouldn't want to carve up the stock either. However, you don't have to use only that stock. I bought a beater stock for my M50 because I wanted to experiment some with it and didn't want to mess up my original stock. You can find used stocks for not too much money. Or, if you want to keep yours looking nice but still not mess with the stock, someone was making some premium stocks (Micheal Bush maybe?) a while back. You could see about getting one of those inletted for a heavy bar.

I really like this idea. If you can get it to work, and it does slow the ROF noticeably, you will have a winner on your hands. You said: QUOTE Original... looks to have been done in different setups causing it to be crooked in places and offset from the centerline It is not uncommon for the bar to rub the stock, causing reliability problems. QUOTE the stocks are usually too thin in the middle part of the action anyway how much would have to be taken out. More importantly, how much would remain at the thinnest spot? I have a spare beater stock that I don't feel bad about chopping on. These don't seem to be too difficult to find. I wouldn't think it would be that big of a deal to get a used stock to experiment on. How much do you expect the heavy action bar to cost?

QUOTE (jmacken37 @ Nov 9 2005, 09:49 AM)You're from MI, right? Hope to go to the 'pit' sometime. Maybe I'll see you there. Not to change the subject, but I have been working in MI for the past few months. I have seen conflicting reports about MGs in MI. I have a C&R Reising and a C&R FFL. Can I temporarily bring my gun to MI, or is there anything extra (on the state level) that I would have to do?

I hope this is just bad info, but someone over on subguns.com is reporting that Paul Hayes just passed away. http://www.subguns.com/boards/mgmsg.cgi?read=497706 I hope he is wrong. If not, our condolences to his family.

QUOTE (Clarkridge @ Sep 24 2005, 06:39 AM)I finally got my Reising yesterday, only a 10 month wait through form 3&4!! Man, you should have gotten a C&R FFL. You could have cut out the Form 3 wait time. The transfer on my Reising took just over 3 months, and the mailman brought it straight to my front door. How cool is that?

Wow. I'm suprised that they break like that. Mine had started to "mushroom" a little on the end. I filed it back to the original profile. I can't see it breaking all that easily, though. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif

How about a little more info on the 9mm conversion. Is it semi-permanent, or a drop-in. (do they replace the barrel, or use a barrel liner?) If it is not a drop-in, is it reversable? How much more controllable is it? Is the rate-of-fire faster/slower/same?

I posted the following the other day at ar15.com: New mag showed up today. It looks like a good quality unit. I believe it's an aftermarket mag, though. Even so, it cost roughly half of what used factory mags go for, so I can't complain. While it is marked: "H&R - REISING MODEL 50 - CAL. 45 MAGAZINE" It's missing: "HARRINGTON & RICHARDSON ARMS CO. WORCHESTER, MASS. U.S.A." Top to bottom: factory 12-round mag, factory 20-round mag, Gun-Parts corp 20-round mag. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/DSC03216.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/DSC03217.jpg Hopefully, I'll get a chance to try out the new mag in the next couple of days. ---------------------------------------------------------- I had a chance to try the new mag out today. Overall it ran pretty well. I loaded / emptied it 4 or 5 times. Shot it on semi, then bursts, then a mag dump. It had a couple of failures to feed, but I have other mags that do that sometimes too. I'm thinking of radiusing / polishing the feedramp on my gun. When it fails to feed (during bursts), it nosedives into the bottom of the feed ramp. It appears that there is plenty of material on the ramp to reshape it some. Anyone have any experience doing this?

I ordered a mag yesterday online, and today I got a "your stuff has shipped" email from them. Should be able to post a report in a few days.

If you can afford it, I'd get the Uzi. For all the reasons you posted. Another one is that silencers stay on the Uzi (replaces the barrel nut) and don't unscrew like on the MAC10. I greatly enjoy my MAC10. I shoot it in both 9mm & .45. I bought the MAC because I was a poor college student at the time and it only cost $900 (this is when Uzis were NIB from Vector for $2900). The Uzi has better sights, better magazines, better rate of fire. The stock on the Uzi is much better than on the MAC. Especially if you get a solid wood stock. If you get a chance, try them both out and see what you think.

A few comments: The grip/magwell is bigger on a .45 than on a 9mm. That is why you can use an insert to switch from .45 to 9mm but not the other way. To shoot .45, you would have to cut off the grip/magwell and weld on a .45 magwell. My gun is a .45 and I have a couple of different mag inserts to use with 9mm mags. The first is a Sten magwell from Tactical Innovations. I had to ship the gun off to have the insert fit to the gun. It uses cheap Sten mags, but they have to have a tab welded to the back of them in order to hit the mag catch. I have a couple of mags that work great, and several that won't run for anything. My other magwell is (I believe) from Cobray. It was designed to use the more expensive 2-position Walther mags. But I find that it works fine with the single-position zytel mags. This is what I use exclusively in my gun when shooting 9mm. I have installed metal feedlips on all of my mags and they work flawlessly. They are much easier to load than the Sten mags, and (unlike the Stens) require no tweaking once the metal feedlips are on. Go to max-11.com for the feedlips. I highly recommend them. I have bought a few of the metal South African mags from CDNN for my M11. I believe that with a little filing on the mag catch area, I could get them to lock up properly in the MAC10. That might be worth you looking into. I believe at the moment they are only around $10 ea. A good solid stock makes the gun so much more shootable. After being unable to find an original RPB wood stock, I ended up building a reproduction. It's rock solid and very comfortable. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/ISSMC%202005/DSC03188.jpg Suppressors: get a good nomex cover and hold on tight. There are a few other tricks that you can do but I no longer trust them. you can... 1. put a rubber washer over the OD of the barrel so it fits between the rear of the can and the front of the upper receiver. This works well for one or two mags. But be sure to check that the can is tight every time you put a new mag in. 2. wrap teflon plumbers tape around the barrel threads. This will make the can fit much tighter and less likely to loosen. 3. tighten with a strap wrench. Here's the problem: I was shooting my MAC10 at a subgun match a couple of years ago. I had a cheap nomex cover that slid over the front of the can. (I think you can still get these from RPB or Et Cetra. I think they've been in inventory since the late '70s). This cover was very slick on the smooth can surface. Enough so that I could not keep it from unscrewing. Also, the cover poked out at the seam. This kept getting up in front of my front sight making it difficult to shoot. I finally pulled the cover and went with all three of the other "solutions" that I have listed above. They were good for about 100 rounds (or about half way through the stage for me). After that, the can would heat up and melt the teflon tape. The constant full-auto vibrations were enough to break the can loose in spite of the rubber washer and the strap wrench tightening. When this happened, I started getting baffle strikes like this: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/DSC02034.jpg Not a happy thing. I have since started using a lace up nomex/leather cover from http://beepspouches.com/ . All I can say is that it's well worth the money. It laces on tight so that the can won't slip under the cover. You have a good gripping surface. I haven't had a baffle strike since I put this cover on. FWIW, I'm waiting for the .22 unit that Richard Lage at max-11.com is putting out. I believe the unit is ready for production and he's just waiting for a blessing from ATF. Have fun with your new toy.

QUOTE (Clarkridge @ Jun 5 2005, 07:24 AM) What bullets were you shooting in the reising? 230 gr. FMJ handloads.

I shot a subgun match in central Nebraska today. Although there was rain in the forecast, it turned out to be a beautiful day. I have only had my Reising for a few months now, and have not really had much of a chance to play with it. I had bought it with the idea of using it in "C&R" or "Classic" division in subgun matches. But I had hesitated about shooting it here today, as they did not recognize that division at this match. They only had "Optics" and "Iron Sights". I thought about shooting my MAC10 in "Iron Sight" class, as I am more comfortable with that gun. I feel that I can shoot it a little better than I can the Reising. But I decided to do it anyway, as it would be a good practice run for the ISSMC match later this month (where they do have "Classic" division). It turned out to be a pretty good decision. The gun ran beautifully all day with not a single malfunction. I had posted here about how the new springs had sped up the gun considerably. As I had not really had a problem before, I put the old springs back in the gun for the match. It seemed to work out well. The gun was quite controllable, and performed very well for me. It may have given me some advantage as well. I believe mine was the only gun shot in the match that was not a 9mm. The three stages consisted of IPSC paper targets and steel pepper poppers. Some of the steel was set really heavy. So much so that some of the people shooting 115 gr. 9mms could not knock them over even with a 2-3 round burst. A low hit from the .45 wouldn't take them over. (I was shooting a 9mm in "Optics" division, and 147 gr. bullets seemed to do okay). Here are a few pix for your viewing pleasure: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/NE-SMG/DSC03045.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/NE-SMG/DSC03004.jpg You can see some of the targets in the background. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/NE-SMG/DSC03044.jpg Doing a reload on the run http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/NE-SMG/DSC03007.jpg Unload & show clear.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/DSC02856.jpg Here's one. At first glance, the Reising and Thompson comps look pretty similar. The Reising is made of a thin sheetmetal, while I believe the Thompson is heavier. What are the laws like for owning firearms in Italy? Or has your Thompson been "deactivated"?

Mine will run 185 plated SWCs, and 230 gr. TCs. But not 100% with either. As Reisingstar noted, they seem to run best with RN-FMJ bullets. RN-lead seems to work as well, but needs to be cleaned more often. My gun stopped running after about 400 rds. of mixed lead & jacketed.

Here's a picture of the old springs next to the new springs. Notice a bit of difference. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/GarrettJ/DSC02860.jpg

I recently bought the set of Reising springs that Wolff offers. I shot the gun for the first time since changing out all of the springs. I must say, it made a noticable difference. Before, I could shoot doubles all day long with the gun set in F/A. Today, I only got a few doubles. Usually, I would fire off 3 rounds per trigger pull. I pulled out my timer and clocked a few bursts. I am now getting around 1075 RPM, where before I was just over 800. That's faster than my MAC10. For blasting, that's just fine. But for subgun competition, slower is better. I just ordered a couple of replacement recoil springs from Wolff. I'm going to try cutting them down to see how slow I can get it without effecting reliability. I might try the old spring as well. I never had a problem with it.