Elbow

That's funny Mike. I was going to Photo Chop it, but I figured I'd keep it clean and let you guys do the dirty stuff.... You read mind though...

Isn't that the one Sen Dian Feinstein was hiding in her Arse.... http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/Sen-Diane-Feinstein.jpg

Bosnian :angry:

Thanks Phil. I remember you told me how to make springs before and that's what I applied to this project. I put mine in the oven at that temp you stated. That worked fine I even used music wire(guitar string) only for the coil under the pawl and the other spring that acts like a lever, I had no music wire on hand "big enough" to work and there was noway I was going to buy a roll of wire for x amount of cash for only the 2 inches of wire needed, so improvised and I found something more sturdy. It's been awhile since I did this mod so I was trying to "remember" what I did for anyone interested in this, because the old boards no longer have "all" the info needed. In the end it was done cheap and easy.

The washers our used to protect the wire from getting bound up against the sear block and will ensure FREE movement. Back when I first silver soldered it, the washers came off so I tried with out the washers and it would not function properly. So it's mig welded now. The measurements are from a military drawing of 1941. and that's what I used, you can go with your measurements but I can't guarantee it will work. As for the pin I just used a MAP gas torch and heated it till red and pulled the pin out, unless your pawl is all one piece then you'll have to custom make a pin. When you move this, you move it towards the pivot axis of the pawl. I think I to you other wise earlier. I know there is not a lot of space in the semi but it will work. Here is some better pics As it sets in the "bolt hold open setting" without the outer washer http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/IMG_0858.jpg The basic operation without the sear block for better clarity. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/IMG_08622.jpg Relocation of the pin and spring. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/IMG_08613.jpg With the internals. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/IMG_0864.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/IMG_0865.jpg

This makes me feel a bit sick :angry: http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/DecomissioningWeapons006.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/DecomissioningWeapons009.jpg

I looked for my old post, but came up dry so I'll try again to repost the info First, after disassembly ,you need to drill out your semi frame, unless you have a real GI frame you wont need to do any drilling. (Hole sizes are for the large DIA .301 +0.0025 and the small dia is 0.181 +0.0025 That's from US Ord Dwg Dec 1941) http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/Frame2.jpg As for the Pawl it's very important to get this part right. here a pic from Damon( I didn't take a pic of mine) http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/milledpawl2.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/milledpawl.jpg You can make this by cutting a washer in half then put it together with a whole washer then weld them to the pawl together. Silver solder just wasn't a good bond for me, it fell apart. Now the hardest part of this thing is the springs. Getting the shape of the spring and getting the right type of wire is a bit frustrating. They say music wire works fine but I could not get that to work, so I use a heavier gauge wire(only on the lever acting spring). The coil under the pawl is music wire. The little pin and spring under the pawl had to be relocated so the selector lever would fit through and then this would cause the spring to bind up. To correct this you have to relocated the "spring seat" on the frame by drilling about 1/16th inch from the factory seat. ( I wish I had taken pics of this to better help you understand this). You'll see what I mean when you take it a part. Note* Relocate the pin and spring after you welded the washer in place because it will heat the part up and the solder will ooze out. Solder was used to hold the pin in place. Once you get past that then you have to grind away some material from sear block and notching the pawl (pic). I took alot of material off the sear block just to get it to fit again. I think I took a good 1/16-1/18 th off the right side. Grind away the stuff that keeps the selector from passing through. And of course you need the a FA pivot plate and selctor. Good luck Note don't forget to heat treat your springs inorder for them to act like springs. If you don't you'll just compress them and they will stay in the compressed stage........You can put them in a oven at 500 degrees for 1 hr then air cool.( per Phil Ohio) Done http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/IMG_0608.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/IMG_0696.jpg

You can either go to a Hobby shop and get some of TESTERS Olive Drab in a spray can. Or it you want, go to a automotive store and get some self etching Olive Drab Primer in a spray can. I used that stuff a few times and it holds up pretty good.

It's MASS PRODUCTION vs QUALITY. Kinda sounds like the BIG THREE Auto makers.

Post some pics of the parts in question. The R stamp indicates Remington mfg. The other manufacturers are as follows: S for Savage, AOC for Auto Ordnance, and P for Petroleum Heat and Power.

Yep, the 1972 Games really turned ugly fast. The Olympics our just a political game now. You see only what they want you too see in depth/detail. Then they show only a glimpse of certain games that are considered wrong or ban in other country's in-order to desensitize people, such as some of the gun related games. Heres for the twit Olympics. They should have used a Thompson here.

I like Monty Pythons Olympics best. They show it all...

+1 colt21a Hey, if it works buy it and shoot it. Alot of people have safe queens that hardly see the light of day for a long time. If the barrel is 16 inches or better I'd buy it and have fun and then maybe one day you can afford the real deal or a WH or Kahr clone. You could put the 500 towards a new Kahr, but no guarantee it will work out of the box.

Neat Photo's. The evolution of the Aircraft mounted Gatlin gun. Like Norm said I would HATE to reload that thing.....

It's alive, Sweet Thanks Dalbert

Why not!!! I really don't think anyone here likes or respects Kahr in anyway shape or form. Kahr = crap products and crap customer service. They are the modern day corporate thieves.

dutigaf Out of curiosity, how did you end up finishing the barrel and comp with out the threads? Must of been a big gap between barrel and comp. Sleeve it?? I did mine by using the threads I cut off.

Creative and very original. But just how legal is it to re-weld a FA receiver back to a working piece? I was always under the assumption that you have to have a particular license. I could be wrong. Hopefully you have one. But if you did have one you should be able to SBR it..Right??? Added http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/uppercompleted.jpg

That's just great, just frigin great!!! A couple of ignorant jackasses run their mouths and now the board is closing!! :angry: Cmon don't let Trolls get to you (Nick/Frank). This is the only board where their is a wealth of information coming from a group of excellent people, I'm mean you can't find a better group of people than the ones on this board. Most all questions are answered in a professional way and with alot of knowledge because we care about other people here. Try getting some Thompson questions answered at other places like Ar15.com. It won't get answered or some KID will sound in and tell ya to use a hammer to fix it . This is my home page also. If you get out of line sometimes people here will let you know. This board has a great history to it and I could not have rebuilt my Tommy with out this board. If certain people really piss you off that much then BAN THEM. This is like the Democrats taking All our guns away because of some IDIOTS breaking the laws. Please keep this place open. Thanks Tony

Congrats on the weight loss. Hope it wasn't all from stress. I bet you feal like a new person. I myself lost 65 lbs in the past year and what a difference that made for my health. And you lost 200 lbs!!! wow. I remember your Vid you put out their for us to see, BIG difference. Just don't put it back on, that the hardest part I think.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Topomast/dificensurebuttono.jpg

Pictures of this prossess would GREAT...

I would worry...The aluminum receiver will wear out much faster that a steal receiver. Kahr and Westy uses a soft steal for the receivers and when you put 500 or so rnds threw the gun you'll see the FEED ramp start to "GROVE". Aluminum really isn't any better in that area, not to mention the bolt cavity starting to wearout. Aluminum= :nono:

Anything steal cased in my FN/FAL .308 is a big NO NO. The case gets stuck 100% of the time and is almost impossible get the case out. And with brass case bullets I have never had any trouble ever (Knock on Wood)

Here's one on Ebay Here