wwiifirearms

https://youtu.be/aQfDfoXz2Ek

Pictures

4 mag dumps w/o a jam! I built up the extractor with weld and reshaped with dremmel and files to about 0.010 tolerance from bolt, making sure the tip was the tallest part. Still need to do cosmetic work, but not until I test some more. Range is closed today and I can only shoot so much in my barn before the neighbors get annoyed. Thanks for all the help!

I moved the ejector forward so it is now 40mm from the breach face. Not my prettiest job, but it seems to be in the right spot. Doesnt rub anywhere and gets the brass out of the extractor. Still having the same issue at the same frequency, about 1 in 10 the brass does make it out of the ejection port. This has all been with Walmart Winchester white box. I may try different ammo. Also, perhaps the extractor is canted forward slightly an instead of the tip hitting the brass it is hitting further back on the extractor. I could put a spot of weld on the tip of the extractor and reshape it. Also I think the magwell play is because of oblong hole, see pictures. Any other ideas?

I discovered one more variable, there is some forward to back play in the magwell, so these pictures are with it as far forward as it goes. This wont impact the critical dimensions of the ejection port and ejector, as we are measuring those from the breach face. Breach face to back of ejection port is 58mm, so that looks good The tip of the ejector is 44mm from the breach face(after I moved it yesterday), so that needs to move forward 5mm.

Thanks! Great detailed information. I really appreciate the time you took on this. Ill do some more measuring on mine and see if I can make the adjustments.

I moved the ejector forward about 1/16”. No change. Might have to cut it out again and move it more. Still not sure that is the issue, because it ejects perfectly 9 out of 10 Times. Anything else I should try before cutting and rewelding the ejector again? Thanks

Link to video

Finally got around to trying to the kinks out of my Neal Smith Sten Mk II tube gun. I get 1 or 2 failures to eject per magazine, I notice if I push forward on the magazine I get 1 failure every couple of magazines. I replaced the extractor and extractor spring and there was no change. I shot some Slo-mo video and I see it extracts but instead of being tossed out the ejection port the case bounces forward and is caught between the bolt a breach face. Comparing my ejector placement to photos linked on another post. It looks like mine is at least 1/8 inch farther back than others. Can any Sten experts tell from these pics. Thanks

Friend of mine sent Form 4 paper, in-State, person to person, July 15, 2017. Approved 12/20/2017, postmarked 12/28/2017, Stamp arrived 1/4/2018. His first Machinegun, 173 days.

I got one of the complete IMA M1 bolts when they were $195. Packed in grease, appeared brand new bright finish. Didnt fire when I put it in my Pearl M1A1, but that gun isnt 100% mil spec, so Im not surprised I may have some hand fitting to do.

It would be interesting to know if there is any sign of the serial number stamp on the breach end of the barrel/chamber. I believe they are sometimes visible without removing the barrel and would be expected on a three digit serial number Gun. Anyone know who Howard Turner is?

The auction houses may quote you 15%, then charge the buyer 13% premium, or 18% to internet buyers, sometimes other fees. Thats how they get to 25-35% of the sale price. I sell guns on consignment for 10%, plus online auction fees of 3-4%, no buyer premium, and for a big ticket item Ill go lower. I brokered a transferable M60 and a couple other NFA Guns last year. They take up a lot more time than other guns.

I see two factors influencing value relative to similar guns: 1. Consecutive numbers 2. Restoration My experience has been that consecutive serial number do NOT bring a significant premium on high-end firearms for several reasons. First, the number of people that can afford one is already small, far fewer can afford two. Second, those that can afford two might prefer two variations (21a and 21ac) rather than identical Guns. Unless there is some other factor, like the both went on ethe same shipment to Baby Face, I dont see added value. For me restoration always hurts value on an historic firearm. They are only original once. Someone else can always restore a gun, but you cant unrestore a gun. If the gun is trashed, broken, and filled with wwii parts, restoration probably doesnt hurt it much, but it doesnt add value beyond the cost of the restoration. Bottom line, I think you have two $35,000-$40,000 Guns. If the seller wont separate them, I think it hurts the value. As a pair $60,000 and they buyer would probably do well if they separated them and sold them.

Mine was not pinned. I replaced the Barrel because the one that came with it was tapped for a BFA and damaged by blanks. Also, the gun is not 100% mil spec dimensions. I had PK get mine running perfect. It took a fair amount of work fitting the barrel and correcting the fit of the lower to the upper. Ps-would love to see pics to compare to mine

I dont see enough Colt parts to know the market, so Ill approach it this way, If my Colt 1921 was missing a part or broke a part, what do I think I would be willing to pay? Id be guessing at value, but if I needed it and saw it on a gun show table Id probably pay it. 1- Rear stock complete with all metal 1a -- buttplate with screws (no wood) 1b -- Stock locking assembly complete with screws (no wood) $1000 2 - Rear pistol grip with screw $350 3 - Vertical foregrip with screw $500 4 - Barrel with ring sight and cross pin $2500 5 -1921 COLT Actuator (keyhole ears light actuator) $1800 6 - COLT BOLT complete $650 7 - Colt unmarked blish lock $200 8 - 1921 two piece spring / buffer guide with spring $750 9 - Entire lower assembly with wood grip $2500 10 - stripped lower assembly $1500 Seems pretty close to $10,000. However, that assumes finding a buyer that needs each part. I might buy those parts at 25%-50% if I saw them and just wanted a spare. I cant see buying a complete kit to make a dummy or sample, so I would only buy a kit if It was cheaper than the sum of the parts.(or I had buy it to get the part I needed)

https://www.atf.gov/firearms/docs/atf-national-firearms-act-handbook-chapter-10/download

If Transferable it retains C&R status after reactivation. There is an ATF statement somewhere on this. There is some value for transfers, not having to file a form to cross state lines, and I believe at least one state only permits ownership of C&R NFA Guns.

Off topic, Not sure what font colt21a is using, but really hard to read on a phone. No offense meant, you always have awesome information. Just hard for me to follow when on my phone.

Price varies depending on how many he is doing. The actuator was $125+Your WWII actuator, Hybrid Pilot $50, springs $15 ea

I thought I would share some pictures of my 1921 actuator converted from a 1928 actuator. And my 1921/1928 hybrid pilot. Both made by PK a.k.a. diamond K

Yes, I have an FFL/SOT, Olmsted Armory LLC. Prior to having an FFL I also did appraisals under wwiifirearms.com Ive had them accepted by courts and insurance companies. Never had anyone question credentials, but not sure if any went to USAA.

Appraisal isnt a big deal. We do them all the time. Let me know if you need one.

I would think it might bring $10,000 if split up and sold as individual parts, but harder to find one person that needs everything.

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