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Building a Display Gun


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ok....here's the question. If im going to engrave the lower to match the upper serial numbers, how do I get past the fact that there are savage serial numbers already there.do I fill in the numbers with weld, grind flush and reblue???

I realize to do this the right was would be to buy a colt lower and just use those numbers on the upper...but $1500.00 is out of my budget for this project.gimme some ideas of how to fill in the savage numbers.

 

p.s

the savage numbers are outside the colt 15041 range....so that's not an option to use those numbers.

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I'd buff the numbers out, lightly steel wool the area and stamp the new ones then re-blue.

It's only a display gun,

Darryl

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kinda what im thinking......of course I wont stamp ,but CNC machine the numbers in.if I had more time id just make an exact colt lower from a solid block of 4140.ive got the drawings already....hmmmmm

Edited by MARK2112
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I cant remove material from that area of the frame or the butt stock will wiggle too much, yes its only a display......but I want it to be a great display.your correct on the bluing not matching the welded area,thats why im hesitant.

Edited by MARK2112
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already talked to the boss about making lowers with early markings....he said nobody will buy them. Anybody want to start a company?

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already talked to the boss about making lowers with early markings....he said nobody will buy them. Anybody want to start a company?

I would possibly be interested in a trigger frame or maybe a complete lower if the switches and mag catch are high quality if you ever get up and running, and correct me if I'm wrong but I have a feeling there are others here that would be interested in one as well. Edited by GUTTERRATT
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This winter.......i may make 1 exact colt copy, early arrows, just to see if i can do it.before i start im gonna need alot of help from the forum members on the idiosyncrasies of a colt lower.
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Hey Mark -

many years ago, when there were no trigger frames - or even parts sets, I set up for,

and manufactured, M1928A1 and M1/M1A1 Thompson trigger frames. And if I may say so, they were

perfect. Back then - I am guessing in the early 1980's I sold them for $195. Shortly after I started making

them the "parts kit" concept was discovered and exploited by Sarco, Armex, Ohio Ordnance, and others.

Sarco sold complete M1 Thompson parts set less receiver for....$195. Like clicking a switch there was

no market for trigger frames when you could buy the whole kit for what I was selling a stripped trigger frame

for.

Anyway, pertaining to your project I have a few of the M1928A1 trigger frames left. Now, they do not have

the Colt pattern engraving, but the tail of the frame is unmarked and could be numbered with your #7387,

in fact I have a die to do this correctly. (Not just 7387 but any number).

Here are a few photos. I did the engraving with special dies I had made as opposed to CNC. As you can

see we started with a large blank as seen in the first photo and machined it down to a finished frame. I am

about to start making m1/M1A1 frames - I think they will sell, but there are (in my opinion) far too many

M1928A1 frames out there from the Russian kits to be able to make and sell new ones.

If you (or anyone else - I have 2 or 3 of them) are interested in the un-numbered frame let me know.

 

Bob

 

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f392/reconbob/IMG_5567_zps721c32a4.jpg

 

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f392/reconbob/IMG_5568_zps4b48f821.jpg

 

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f392/reconbob/IMG_5569_zpsecf8bdf5.jpg

Edited by reconbob
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I would take a small punch and try to work the metal back down where the serial number is on the lower. Since they were stamped the metal should just be moved. I know guys were doing this on the import markings on Garand and Carbine barrels with good success.

 

Since the Colt markings for safe, fire, full auto and single should match the WWII you have you just need to work the serial area and then grain and polish the lower. There are Russian lowers where the serial was ground off, almost look like they were scooped out, and I doubt there was buttstock figment issues. The surrounding area should support the same or similar fit as pre modification.

 

TC

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#7387- As long as you are doing a clone...... Do the best in the world, John would be proud ! Suggest you travel to the Holy Grail and shoot it-

I bet they would dig that- A Colt Thompson is a great thing, as long as you are doing a Colt Thompson clone, do it historically. There is only ONE.

 

Fun project. Back in the day, I would of probably partnered with you on the project.

 

Fun stuff-

 

 

OCM

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im going to engrave the serial numbers on my display receiver this weekend, both upper and lower, does anyone know what the character height was on the serial numbers.i thought I saw something on that detail in the big hill book but wasn't sure.im going to do the Dillinger numbers,but if one day I or someone else want to make a functional post sample , will that be a problem with 2 thompsons with matching numbers?

Edited by MARK2112
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doubt there is a issue adding a serial number to the display, also doubt its possible to register a hand built demo turned FA firearm, if it was then they have to add a second number I would figure.

 

regarding font, if you find out let me know, I tried to replicate rolled stamping on the cnc, finally cut the text a different angle on the right side to similate the rolling effect, took some playing, used a solid carbide bit ground it to a sharp pointlengthwise, due to the grinding roughtness it cut more like a file raising the edge on the right side, I figured it looked prety good

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Found the dimentions in hills book.....page 97
serial numbers are .093" in heigth with an .065" gap between the model of 1921 and the serial number. I think im going to pocket the old serial number out .010" deep or just until the AO number is gone and engrave within the pocket NO 7387. I don't like the welding idea or sanding out the old number.

Edited by MARK2112
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  • 2 weeks later...

I just ordered a company to make me the JHB inspection stamp for the side of my Richardson receiver. Thats a nice little detail for my display. I need someone to measure the diameter of the circle on proof mark so I can make an accurate stamp.......whos got a caliper and a colt???

Edited by MARK2112
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Mark,

 

I believe you may have the worst case of Thompsonitis that I've seen in years.

I'd seriously think about moving to a more gun friendly state to better enjoy your new passion in life.

 

I had a healthy dose of it myself, some call this ailment a form of gun sex. In my case it flared up when our soon to be skinney

dictator looked like he would win the presidency. There's plenty of room down yuander in West Virginne' fer ye.

Come on down, there biting good down here!

 

Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do:-)

 

Darryl

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Yea darryl.......when i focus .....i really focus . I've won several national modeling championships when i was doing that a few years ago,now that this kit fell in my lap this summer its become my new national champion.people have been picking at me for wanting to pursue this with such fervor.every little detail on the thompson has a story behind it.and as far as the stamp goes.......i dont know what ill do with it once im done with my display.it will have a serial number of 7387,so theres no passing this reciever off in the future as an authentic copy.people who buy these guns really do the homework first,so we shouldnt worry about any fraudulent intent. Edited by MARK2112
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I am in agreement that it is not good for people to do fake markings. However, in this case what could possibly be

marked with the JHB stamp that could be presented as original? The JHB stamp was only applied to receivers - not

to stocks or webgear, etc. etc. OK, the ultimate would be to fake a receiver, but this is really not possible. Even if

Dr. Evil spent $15,000 on the dies for the engraving and special old-generation tooling and manufacturing processes

to clone a receiver it would still have no value because it would not be registered.

 

Bob

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