Cleaning and lubrication of TSMG's

[katanafred]

I realize this topic has likely come up in the past, but what do you all currently use to clean and lubricate your TSMG's after shooting them?  Since we tend to go with what we know, I still use CLP like I used in the Marines as well as Hoppes #9 to clean the bore and MIL-COMM TW25B Gun Grease Lubricant to protect parts.  Has anyone tried "Shooter Lube"?

Thanks!

[RoscoeTurner]

I use G96 mostly.

[katanafred]

1 hour ago, RoscoeTurner said:

I use G96 mostly.

Do you use the military approved bore cleaner, then one of the synthetic CLP gun oils?

[RoscoeTurner]

46 minutes ago, katanafred said:

Do you use the military approved bore cleaner, then one of the synthetic CLP gun oils?

If you are shooting modern ammunition a separate "military approved" bore cleaner is a bit of an overkill.  I have used G96 to clean firearms for over forty years, if there was a problem with this method I am sure it would have shown up well before now.

https://g96.com/product/gun-treatment/

Now with that said, after shooting suspected corrosive ammunition I will clean the firearm first with Ballistol, then oil with G96.  However the only firearms I shoot with this type ammunition are belt feds and your question was about Thompsons.
 

[brveagle]

Lucas oil makes a nice gun oil that I have found to stick/cling pretty well to the metal. And of course ballistol for the stock. 

[komodoj]

I love Rem-oil spray. Hoppes for bore cleaning. 

[Colt Chopper]

15 hours ago, komodoj said:

I love Rem-oil spray. Hoppes for bore cleaning. 

Same here, nothing fancy.  

[LSU Tiger]

I've used and tried a number of different cleaners and oils/lubes over the years.  I've found that most perform well under occasional use conditions.  None  of us will be living under combat conditions in the near future (I hope). 

 

Here's what I use.  Hoppe's 9 is  great bore cleaner.  I also use it to clean anything that comes in contact with powder gas.  When I've shot corrosive ammunition, I revert to hot (tap) soapy water, then oil, checking it for a few days after.  Oil is like discussing religion or politics at Thanksgiving dinner, it will start an argument.  I use 0W-20 synthetic motor oil.  It stays put and will withstand heat without cooking or breaking down.  The gentleman I bought my Thompson from suggested grease on the sear and bottom of the bolt to prevent damage.  When I cleaned out Dad's house after his death, I found a huge tube of white lithium grease, "Lubriplate,"  for out board motor lower units.  It works great and the price was right. 

 

Since we're sort of on the subject, I use tung oil on the stock, grip, and fore end.

Edited September 6, 2023 by LSU Tiger

[SP Sarge]

Break Free CLP was the only thing authorized for weapon cleaning when I was in the Marines as an 0311 rifleman. The only oils I use on my Thompsons are Break Free CLP or Clenzoil. I do like the break free better as the viscosity is thicker and seems to stick around longer under high heat conditions. Both are non toxic, and if you oil your piece proper for the range, your going to be wearing some on your shooting glasses and face.

[katanafred]

2 hours ago, SP Sarge said:

Break Free CLP was the only thing authorized for weapon cleaning when I was in the Marines as an 0311 rifleman. The only oils I use on my Thompsons are Break Free CLP or Clenzoil. I do like the break free better as the viscosity is thicker and seems to stick around longer under high heat conditions. Both are non toxic, and if you oil your piece proper for the range, your going to be wearing some on your shooting glasses and face.

Semper Fi, Marine ... I was also an 03 and yep, CLP/breakfree is what I know and have been using. As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, I'll also use Hoppes #9 to clean the bore, but I have noticed than when I swab my bore with CLP after a shoot and let it sit for while, it cleans up fast!!  I also like this MIL-COMM TW25B Gun Grease Lubricant that I found on Amazon. it's a white lithium type grease and a little dab goes a long way - I put a thin coat on the blish lock, bolt, actuator & buffer pilot. Makes these parts easier to clean too. RAHHH!

[ranger1385]

2 hours ago, SP Sarge said:

Break Free CLP was the only thing authorized for weapon cleaning when I was in the Marines as an 0311 rifleman. The only oils I use on my Thompsons are Break Free CLP or Clenzoil. I do like the break free better as the viscosity is thicker and seems to stick around longer under high heat conditions. Both are non toxic, and if you oil your piece proper for the range, your going to be wearing some on your shooting glasses and face.

Ditto!  Same thing we used in Ranger Bn.  I use a shaving brush to apply it to external surfaces.  I "reappropriated" a gallon of the stuff before I left.  

[Ryo]

I always use Breakfree as well.. If it isn't broke don't fix it. 

 

I have tried other stuff and sometimes I cycle through stuff just to use it up. 

[1gewehr]

BreakFree is great for cleaning and lubricating.  Not so great for long-term storage as it will gum up after sitting for a couple of years.  I use bearing grease for places that need grease, and Ballistol for everything else.  I figure anything good enough for the German Army to use for over 100years is probably good stuff.  It dries into a thin waxy coating and doesn't gum up after long-term storage.

[Doug Quaid]

You know what works really really great to clean and lubricate?

Literally any product on the market.  If it says "gun" on the can, you are good to go.

If you name a product, there are 1,000,000 people who say its great and 1,000,000 who say it sucks.

Why do gun cleaners and lubricants constantly need to be improved?   Didn't gun cleaners and lubricants work in 1990 or 2000 or 2010?   Are people shooting 100,000 rounds without cleaning in a swamp in Guadalcanal and then being airlifted to the artic circle for another 100,000 rounds?

There is a super-expensive "tactical" cleaner on the market called "FireClean" that reportedly turned out to be corn oil.  Someone did a chemical spectrum analysis on it.

A lot of times I use WD40 to clean a full auto gun, and a synthetic motor oil to lubricate it.  That's about as non-elite and non-scientific and non-johnny-commando as you can get and IT WORKS FINE.  WD40 will clean a bore just fine.

I do have some minor advice:

Us a Goldenrod dehumidifier in your gun safe.    Do not store any gun in a gun blanket or cloth of any kind.  As air temperature changes, it picks up and deposits moisture.  You want the gun to be able to dry to the air, the tiny amount of condensation it picks up every day.  This is important.  

Do not overclean your gun, there is absolutely no reason to clean a gun like a piece of surgical equipment, it will be dirty again after the first shot.

There is almost never any reason to "detail strip" a gun for cleaning.  If the guts of your shotgun or revolver get grimy, blast it out with Remington Action Cleaner, it's like brake cleaner for guns.

If you have really bad copper fouling in a gun, like maybe an old Garand, make yourself an electronic bore cleaner with a flashlight and a rheostat.  It works fantastic.  Look on the internet for instructions.

Don't forget to clean the chamber and feed ramp area of your gun.  Sometimes you need a dedicated chamber cleaning brush for that, a larger brush than the bore takes.

I shot a MAC 10 until it was hot as a soldering iron and it cooked the RemOil lubricant into a paste.  Synthetic motor oil might be best for that type of situation.

Also, be sure to use FireClean if you are going to stir pancake batter with your gun.  It's delicious!  Only $25 an ounce.  
 

[Maine-iac]

On 9/16/2023 at 11:21 AM, Doug Quaid said:

You know what works really really great to clean and lubricate?

Literally any product on the market.  If it says "gun" on the can, you are good to go.

A lot of times I use WD40 to clean a full auto gun, and a synthetic motor oil to lubricate it.  That's about as non-elite and non-scientific and non-johnny-commando as you can get and IT WORKS FINE.  WD40 will clean a bore just fine.

Yep, I use the same stuff I use in the car for lubrication, occasionally white lithium for some guns. The only change up is that I use Ballistol for protecting the exterior surfaces, since it dries with a very light waxy finish, and doesn't have quite as many interesting chemicals in it like WD-40. It also plays nicer with wood and leather.

[Rabbit57]

I will add just one more bit of advice. 
I shoot a lot of my lead bullet reloads and after a day of shooting, I clean the bore with a bore brush and Hoppe's, and I wrap the bore brush with a bit of Big 45 metal cleaner. It looks like a ribbon of some kind of metal, it takes the lead out pretty fast! I have not had any issue using this product on any of my guns that I have fired with lead bullets. Rifles, handguns, and now machine guns, none have been damaged. 
https://www.big45metalcleaner.com

Mark

Edited September 19, 2023 by Rabbit57