TennesseeTimmy

I used Th0mps0nbarrels.com (substitute o for 0). At one time, he would do finned, radiused, or smooth, threaded for Comp or not. Worked with Deerslayer on the install. More than happy with how mine came out. FWIW, YMMV, etc. Good luck with your project. Timmy.

As I understand things, you CAN take it across state lines if you go thru the right hoops. But kinda like you say, ME telling you that doesn’t mean much. Officially, your source is the ATF - there are docs and FAQs on their website. Or, go back to the “main” thompson page on this site, drop down a half dozen forums, and post your questions in the class III forum. Those guys have the knowledge. Good luck, Timmy.

You actually got a reply to the compensator question in another thread back in October. From there and other sources, threads of a type 2 Cutts comp are 3/4 x 28. Google can be your friend. Good luck with your project.

Get Dan Block to make you a set he can far outdo what Kahr would sell you and he offers custom woods, etc. he made me a set of grips that perfectly match my GI stock. Well worth it.

X2 on Dan. He is great.

Pictures! Nothing is real without pictures! Show it off, man! Winchester WB works fine in mine. As does Sellier & Bellot. Mr. Block is an artist when it comes to Thompson wood. He can do a lot of other cool sh1t to improve both looks and performance, and is really great to deal with. You won’t regret doing some sort of ez pull springs. Makes it much more fun. Enjoy it! Timmy.

Yeah not necessarily an unfair price. I’ve got more than that in my Kahr SBR and associated goodies. No disrespect to the other poster, but I originally thought I could get out at 1500 or so as well until I actually got deep into it. It’s kinda like a boat. Maybe your detailed breakdown will help folks better evaluate your price. Man!! I’d love the “problem” of having the real thing and my SBR. Good luck. Timmy.

Barrel removal / replacement is the same - and a PITA without the right tools. Unless you are getting a parts kit for other reasons, you might consider a new barrel from Thompsonbarrels-dot-com. His are nice and reasonably priced. As far as your sight, you need new rivets. You can send it to Dan (above) and he can fix some or all of it for you. Good luck with your project, Timmy.

Yes Joebad, deerslayer who answered your OP is very well respected. Has done good work for many of us. Good luck with your repair. Timmy

If memory serves: shape - cheese grater is closer to cylindrical. the “good” one is closer to spherical, knurling - (as the previous poster mentioned), cheese grater’s is “aggressive”, the “good” one’s is “ mild” The appearance of the “good” one is fairly similar to the ones on “real” 1928s. And it’s easy on the fingers, once you do the spring mod. ”good” is subjective of course. YMMV, etc. Timmy

At least some Kahr guns need some work on the extractor slot in the receiver. Mine did. Dan Block took care of me. Let us know how your GI extractors work. Good luck. Timmy

Good lookin gun. Enjoy shooting it. Timmy.

I don’t know what you should do, but be very wary of removing the pivot plate on an assembled gun. I remember reading that can make it virtually impossible to get apart. Hopefully someone who knows something will chime in soon. good luck, Timmy.

Bob said: “I talked to Doug Richardson about this and he said it does not matter what the rate of fire is, the bolt will strike the back of the receiver with the same force at 640 rpm as it would at 770 rpm.” Assuming DR is correct, that impact (and corresponding impulse energy burst beating the s#!t out of the receiver) still happens 130 times less per minute. Maybe simplistic, but seems like a lower ROF would have some positive effect on longevity. OTOH, I’m a electrical engineer, not mechanical, wtf do I know? interesting discussion, thanks to all who have contributed.

In addition to the other things mentioned, Dan Block also checked/reamed the chamber on mine to TSMG specs. I can’t directly PROVE that helped, but mine runs REALLY well, with almost no jams/FTFs/FTEs. Just a sore thumb (and wallet) from loading emptied mags over and over. Fun!

(told you)

Another thing that Richardson mentions is replacing the SA Trip Lever with a modified M1 Trip Lever. I had originally intended to do that but then decided to let “the pros” (Dan Block in my case) do all the modifications instead. I’m attaching (or attempting to) 2 screenshots with DR’s write-up and sketch for reference.

If your S/N starts with K, contact Kahr and give them your S/N. They will (eventually) tell you month and year it was made. Not sure about earlier semis. Tim

Board member Tiz is making them. There’s another thread with his info.

PM me your email address and I’ll send you something that should help you

YMMY? Was it tasty? J/K, sorry about that, my smart-a55 mode kicked in before I could stop it. 🤫. The wood stocks Ive seen have that step around the edge as well. Thanks very much for the detailed measurements and reply. 👍 Have a good Thanksgiving, Tim.

Folks, Looking to use an M14 flip-up buttplate in a project but unsure that it will fit my stock so dont want to buy it first. Anyone got one handy that can post back some dimensions? Thanks in advance. Tim.

I think Doug Richardson had some sort of red dot mount at one time. Last few times I checked, his website was still down.

Don’t think so. The pawl spring pushes UP on the FRONT of the pawl, pushing it UP. If the front is UP, the rear is DOWN. The rear of the pawl can’t catch the bolt if it’s DOWN. A stronger spring would hold the rear of the pawl down with more force, making it LESS likely to inadvertently float up and catch the bolt. Check for a weak or missing spring, or a pawl that is sticking because it’s gunked up, bent, or rubbing on other parts in the trigger group. My 2 cents, good luck with your project. Tim.

I won’t get the ATF verbiage exactly right, but for it to “count”, it has to be “permanently” attached by a method such as welding, hi-temp soldering such as silver solder, or blind pinning. The point is, the attachment can’t be reversible by the average Joe (or Jo).