"Milled" vs "Cast" Actuator (Part 2)

[Bounty1]

Thanks to all for the answers to my first post about this problem, i.e., getting "doubles" when on Semi.

I took problem child to the range today. I had a new milled actuator in it. Didn't seem to make much difference when I put the cast one back in and tried that too after getting "doubles" on semi with both of them. I've been using S&B, Aguila, and Fiocchi. Doesn't seem to make much difference.

However, I ordered some Winchester today, and when it comes in, I will try that.

I do believe, that as some of you have said that the ammo is underpowered, so it recoils enough for cocking but not to grab the sear or whatever part it needs to grab, then bolt goes forward to "snap" off another round. Never happened before but whatever.

Anyway that's the main problem. The other would be to find a competent TSMG smith to check it out in the Flordia area. Anybody know of anyone? If so, please pass the name on to me. I have replaced the buffer rod with GI spec, but I think replacing things in the trigger housing like springs and parts may be a bit beyond my expertise. So if you know a smith, please pass it on.

 

#2, I noticed that in firing with AO or other stick mags that it will sometimes chamber a round but not fire it. Every time this happens it is a stick mag and the round that is on the left siide of the stick mag. Right side feeds fine, and 50 rd, drums work like a dream, of course, they feed straight ahead.

My question is, Would it be advisable to just polish, I mean just polish the feed ramp a bit with a dremel tool. Anyone think that might help a bit? The mags are AO or Seymour so I know they are in spec.

Thanks

[reconbob]

If I understand you correctly, you are now getting "doubles" with the heavy actuator as well? I think your

main problem and concern is to get the bolt to recoil properly so that the bolt stays back very time, and so

the gun works properly on semi all the time. I would hold off on the feeding problem. What you describe

about feeding is not common, but it does happen. The first thing to look at is the mag, then the mouth of

the chamber. If the case that doesn't feed has dent or scrape marks its probably the mouth of the chamber.

But again - first thing is to get the gun to have enough power to work the bolt.

The ammo you are using, as far a s I know should have enough power for the gun. If the gun is

under powered it could be that the barrel is shot out. In this condition the bore is worn enough that the

bullet no longer tightly seals the bore and powder gases blow by the bullet reducing power.

The way to check this is to remove the existing barrel (I know you personally can't do this) and grip

mount and screw on a new barrel hand tight. If the gun works you know its the barrel. If it's the same

at least you didn't waste a lot of time torqueing on the barrel, etc.

 

Bob

Edited August 1, 2015 by reconbob

[mnshooter]

My question is, Would it be advisable to just polish, I mean just polish the feed ramp a bit with a dremel tool. Anyone think that might help a bit?

Thanks

no.

NO.

NO!

[casper]

if it doubles on Fiocchi, it will double on almost anything else, I don't believe this is caused by underpowered ammo, I bet if you clip off 10 coils of the spring, you still will have doubles...

[ron_brock]

Yeah you should have no problem with S&B or Fiocchi this is some of the best in most guns I've shot. S&B being my favorite!! Winchester will be worse, especially if white box.

 

I would first try all the suggestions put forward by the members before you track down a smith. If you aren't comfortable changing out the components as suggested, please do not touch it with a Dremel.

 

Ron

[jim c 351]

Bounty1,

 

#1. Check the extractor groove in front of the chamber. If you find a razor sharpe burr, stone a slight radius on both sides.

 

#2. If you have a spare bolt and / or an extractor, substitute for current parts. The cartridge has to snap from an angle to straight to enter the chamber. If the bolt has a strong extractor or if the cartridge seat in the bolt face is tight , resistance may be slowing the bolt speed and causing a misfire. I suspect the failed cartridges have a light primer hit.

Jim C

 

[reconbob]

Do not try to "fix" anything by making the recoil spring shorter, or conversely by using

a more powerful "high speed" spring. The gun should work properly with the standard spring.

 

Bob

[gijive]

Bounty1,

 

I still believe your issue is related to the grip frame springs or the fact that the grip frame is gunked up with powder residue, grease or oil, not allowing disconnector to operate the sear lever properly. I really don't think it is the feed ramp and please do not use a Dremel Tool on the feed ramp or chamber.

[giantpanda4]

A simple way to verify GIJive's suggestion would be to swap lowers and try it. I agree with him that the internals of the lower are a good place to look, and lowers are cheap enough that you probably ought to have a spare anyway.