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Repro Semi-Auto Grease Gun failing to fire.


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Hoping that maybe someone where will be able to give some advice here. I have a Valkyrie Arms reproduction of an M3A1 Grease Gun. It kind of looks like a grease gun externally but that's about it. I believe it uses an AR trigger group and fires from a closed bolt.

 

I have been having this problem consistently. It'll work fine for a magazine or two and then fails to fire. Once it starts not firing, there is no making it fire again and all the primers will show a light primer strike:

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/45C037E5-0D94-4476-911A-83F24FC3FBDE_zpsi7izn6o1.jpg

 

I've narrowed the culprit down to being that as the thing operates that brass shavings get into the firing pin (This has a hammer and firing pin, not a fixed firing pin like the original open bolt greasers) and cause it to seize. This last time I disassembled the thing I had to drive the firing pin out. And again, there is brass shavings all around the firing pin:

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/A80D4F94-2100-4429-8D6F-1B38D4874D62_zpsxtnanphk.jpg

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/EDC4B8A1-8578-48A7-91EB-ADAC293A4267_zpsxwljma8m.jpg

 

And some shots of the bolt face:

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/3F855ED4-FA2F-48E4-97D7-C0E42FD491FD_zpss5rcgnmf.jpg

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/7500B8C3-42B1-4358-866A-267A43E2DD62_zpsfnbrqddo.jpg

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/FE153C1B-2D6B-499C-A264-3C7C1D9645CB_zpsq4nt5zif.jpg

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/849EE111-6846-4476-8A57-86F6D0A80FA6_zpsqrqqesxy.jpg

 

Cleaned it all up and put it back together DRY. I typically use Mobil1 synthetic oil on it but this time I decided against oil in case it is the oil that is causing the brass shavings to adhere to the firing pin. Upon reassembly I pulled two rounds down, put them in the piece, fired and had good primer strikes and heard the primers pop.

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/5DC93B73-8624-4B98-81A8-5E9C121F4A38_zpsbunvtrq1.jpg

 

I took the bolt back apart to do some measuring. The tip of the firing pin measures 3/32 with a caliper. The next step in, measures 9/64. I don't have a very precise was of measuring the diameter of the hole for the firing pin but I do know that a 3/32 drill bit is slightly smaller than the hole and a 7/64 is too big. I do not have a way to measure that second step that on the firing pin measures 9/64.

 

Another thing that I noticed is that it seems that the firing pin doesn't exactly move freely inside the bolt and always has some resistance on it. Which why I think very little contaminates is causing it to seize.

 

A couple days ago I took it back to the range and sure enough, it failed again after about two magazines. I was careful to segregate the brass so that way I could inspect them, here they are.

 

Looks like it might be a problem with the extractor. If you notice most of the brass has a nick on the rim.

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/F33E157B-31FB-4457-B393-5D79D346F40F_zpsyvvpjekh.jpg

 

I have an email in to the company but they're customer service when I was waiting for the firearm left a lot to be desired, so now that I actually have it, I don't know if I'll hear back.

 

Here's an overall shot of the hunk of junk, in case anyone was wondering. It originally had a 16" barrel but I did paperwork on it and now its a registered SBR. Under the flash hider it's threaded and I can run a suppressor on it and boy is it quiet.

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/IMG_6265_zpsuhypu0ze.jpg

Edited by Kilroy
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First, make sure the firing pin is not slightly bent, although from your description it does not sound like it is. I suggest flattening three side of the shank of the firing pin so the shank has a symmetrical triangular cross-section. The edges of the flat sides retain the correct OD of the round section of the firing pin. The flat sections will give the shavings a place to move into so they don't clog the hole. Fluting the sides of the shank will do the same thing.

The brass pieces on the firing pin appear to have been rolled and compressed making them look like packing peanuts in shape and texture. They are quite large. They look to me like brass shavings that have been rolled around between the shank of the firing pin and the inside of the hole. Look at the sides of your cases......

After the gun stops running, is there evidence of brass particles as large as appear on the firing pin shank in the bolt face recess? In the pics, there appear to be some very fine, tiny brass "flakes" in the recess, but nothing as large as appears on the firing pin.

Brass can shave off the sides of cases from the lips of the mag, from the mouth of the chamber, etc. I don't see any evidence of "shaving" of brass or large chips of brass out of the edges of the bases of the fired cases in the foam bolock. However, there is a very small triangular ding at the edge of the primer hole and a few that have a small "edge" of brass scrapped up by the side of the primer. I would try determine what is causing these.

Just some ideas......

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  • 3 weeks later...

Took the bolt out and tried what you said about the bolt and extractor. The case slides fairly easily up into the extractor but it seems that the extractor does not really clip around the rim and just seems to hold the side of it.

 

Which by the way, it's been almost a month and haven't heard anything from the company.

 

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/33AB27B2-9B3C-4A44-85C8-C85D749B735C_zpsazi11skk.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/C8ABB686-6138-497E-B3F5-6E183F93F3A6_zpsn6kamwte.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/2949A2B4-39C1-490F-8673-CBD7A30A2CBA_zpsl6eyu1mr.jpg

Edited by Kilroy
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I was just thinking the same thing-that the extractor is not out far enough to catch the rim of the case properly which could cause it to rip off part of the rim. Do you know if they made new extractors for this gun or if they are using GI? Is the bolt new or a modified GI?

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I had my M3 apart last night and was looking at the extractor. It looks like yours is almost .040-.060 too short by how it interfaces with the rim of the case. I might suggest you get a GI extractor and see how it looks in your bolt.

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I have a Valkyrie Arms S/A grease gun purchased back in the 1990's I had a issue with the extractor breaking. I sent the gun back on their request and got it back 9 months later, very poor customer service that new extractor broke after a couple hundred rounds. I purchased one from Indianapolis Ordnance and after 2-3 thousand rounds its still going strong, you might want to look into one of their extractor's if you can't find any other cause for the problem your having.

 

Added some pictures of my bolt, the extractor fits nicely over the case.

 

 

IMG_2672.JPG

IMG_2678.JPG

IMG_2673.JPG

IMG_2675.JPG

IMG_2677.JPG

Edited by Orion
  • Upvote 1
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I took it apart again today. It appears that the extractor has some wiggle room back and forth. A couple times I put a case in the chamber and allowed the bolt to go into battery and the extractor completely clipped over it.

 

Someone on another site suggested taking a file and rounding off the top of the ejector since in his opinion that was causing the damage near the primer.

 

Shots of the extractor if you want/need them.

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/65BCAA78-2F47-4BF4-B337-E0431AF74AC6_zpsl0zko1zh.jpg

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/40F73A07-994E-41B5-A109-172251A60AA2_zpsdh3hca0l.jpg

 

The pin that goes into the bolt to hold the firing pin in place also holds the extractor in. As you can see on the end the cut in the extractor has slop to it so the extractor moves inside the bolt.

Edited by Kilroy
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  • 3 weeks later...

I took it apart again today. It appears that the extractor has some wiggle room back and forth. A couple times I put a case in the chamber and allowed the bolt to go into battery and the extractor completely clipped over it.

 

Someone on another site suggested taking a file and rounding off the top of the ejector since in his opinion that was causing the damage near the primer.

 

Shots of the extractor if you want/need them.

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/65BCAA78-2F47-4BF4-B337-E0431AF74AC6_zpsl0zko1zh.jpg

 

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa54/RedSpecialSS/40F73A07-994E-41B5-A109-172251A60AA2_zpsdh3hca0l.jpg

 

The pin that goes into the bolt to hold the firing pin in place also holds the extractor in. As you can see on the end the cut in the extractor has slop to it so the extractor moves inside the bolt.

 

The practice of sending the bolt home on a chambered round is frowned upon with a 1911, as it could damage the extractor.

 

Try the new extractor mentioned in post above.

Edited by Mickey D
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  • 2 months later...

I have a Valkyrie Arms S/A grease gun purchased back in the 1990's I had a issue with the extractor breaking. I sent the gun back on their request and got it back 9 months later, very poor customer service that new extractor broke after a couple hundred rounds. I purchased one from Indianapolis Ordnance and after 2-3 thousand rounds its still going strong, you might want to look into one of their extractor's if you can't find any other cause for the problem your having.

 

Added some pictures of my bolt, the extractor fits nicely over the case.

 

 

I sent you a PM

 

Thing is still not working, if anyone has any new opinions.

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I have one of the Valkyrie Arms M3A1 semi grease guns also. Does your still have the fixed (welded) wire butt stock? Mine does, I'd like to have it converted to a retractable style. Valkyrie Arms offered to do it (for a fee) but I declined as I did not want by gun to disappear if they went out of business again, which they since have.

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Yes, I have only one complaint on the technical aspect of the gun. It has a tight magazine well and will only accept about half of the surplus mags I've tried. The original mag and an after market one fit and function fine. The gun is fun and reasonably accurate.

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