Synthetic Motor Oil In A Thompson?

[The1930sRust]

Hello all my friends here! I have recently returned from a long and tragic journey, and have finally started the new chapter of my life. I hope this post finds everyone well.

 

Haven't done much with the Thompson lately, but do take it out for walkies now and then just for fun. Our Agency recently switched to new pursuit vehicles, and the topic came up of a special oil the engines use. I had never heard of 0W-20 motor oil before. Got to thinking about trying it in the Tommy. I often joke with people that he gun takes about a quart of oil to run! So...

 

Purchased some Mobile 1 synthetic oil. Was thinking about seeing how it would perform. I'd think it would hold its low viscosity in the cold, and hold up well to heat. I had been using Cleanzoil on everything. This oil is a tad thicker but still very light. Just wondering what you all think...

 

Rust

[dalbert]

Welcome back Rust!

 

I've never thought about using synthetic oil in a TSMG, but it certainly works well in cars, so maybe it would be fine. I also use Clenzoil. Not sure what the viscosity of Clenzoil is.

 

Maybe reconbob or PK could weigh in on this subject...

 

David Albert

dalbert@sturmgewehr.com

[Flipseat]

I'm a "Master" Automotive Technician during the day (and at night many times too! and I've seen a lot of oils and lubricants. Everyone on any gun, car, boat, etc board loves to bring up long and drawn out discussions about why their favorite lubricant is the best. Here is the bottom line. Keep it clean, and use the correct viscosity. 0W-20 is very thin, while 20W-50 is much thicker. I have worked on thousands of cars, and I have only seen enough failures to count on one hand that were caused by incorrect oil. Lack of maintenance, and lack of oil cause the failures. This is coming from an automotive background, but keep in mind that the bearing tolerances and such on your new pursuit vehicles are much tighter than tolerances on a Thompson.

 

Synthetics are great due to their ability to handle a wider range of temperatures, but I would be willing to bet that if your Thompson is kept clean and lubed on a regular basis that it will serve you for many more thousands of miles Not to mention, a quart of the stuff will last you many years!

[Uncle Dudley]

I think Mobil 1 was recommended here on the board just around the time I signed up. I have been using it with my favorite gun oil since then in both my 1928 models. I use it primarily on the oiler pads and when I give them a good cleaning, I flush them (and the reciever and bolt) with brake cleaner, (wood furniture removed) blow dry with compressed air, and relube with Mobil 1 10W30 and a little gun oil. I apply some Mobil 1 and gun oil mix on my fingers and coat the inside of the reciever, then wipe off the excess. Other moving parts get some spray gun oil. I took someone's advice on here a long time ago, that TSMG's like lots of oil and lube. I have been advised the opposite for my MP40, it gets a good cleaning and light coat of light gun oil, then a wipe down. This forum has been my best resource for information about TSMG's and other weapons. I thank you all who have contributed to my education.

 

A QT. of Mobile 1 lasts a very long time for machinegun lube. I think shooting the Thompson is similar to flying in an open cockpit airplane from the 1930's. When you're done it's a blast and your face is covered with little specks of oil.

 

U D

[giantpanda4]

I am told for a Browning water cooled, synthetic 5-30 is ideal... never tried in in Tommy though!

 

Rust - Where have you been??

[Chromebolt]

Rust:

 

Didn't you post in an earlier thread you were helping some PD's get thier Thompsons on form 10's to a form 5?

[darrylta]

I've been using 20-50 Mobil 1 for long term storage on all of my guns on the"in the white" and interior surfaces for years.

All of my drums have Mobil 1 grease rubbed into the finish and let dry.

 

This year I've also started using Mothers synthetic car wax, ( 3 coats), on the exposed blued metal surfaces as well.

 

It seems to be working,

 

Rust, it's great to see your back,

 

Darryl

Edited August 2, 2012 by darrylta

[First Sergeant]

Rust,

 

Welcome back ! I've been using synthetic oil in a variety of MG's for over a year. I too read here about using it and have no complaints. Like others have said, a quart will last a very long time. I've retired while you've been gone. I highly recommend it. Stay safe !! Chuck

[WeaponsSgt]

I use mobile 1 5w30 in my SBR Thompson and in my semi auto 1919. I have no complaints about it. I like it because the oil stays where it needs to be and doesn't run all over the place.

[The1930sRust]

Well, Teresa died back in November. Crawled under a rock until about last month. Now things are looking up, and getting the Thompson fever again. Even bought me a new drum the other day!

 

I am told for a Browning water cooled, synthetic 5-30 is ideal... never tried in in Tommy though!

 

Rust - Where have you been??

[The1930sRust]

Yes, but that did not work. I don't recall what the letter said from the ATF, but maybe the guns were dealer samples or something of the like?

 

Rust:

 

Didn't you post in an earlier thread you were helping some PD's get thier Thompsons on form 10's to a form 5?

[Chromebolt]

The reason I was asking is my department has a Reising and 3 mags. We have no documentation for the weapon and ATF refused to paper it for years. About 3 years ago, I submitted paperwork to get it on a from 10 (so at least we could stay in compliance). The paperwork was accepted.

 

The best I can determine, it was received by the department around the 1950's. I would like to get it in the registry, but have no idea on how to proceed. I was hoping you had been successful.

 

CB

[gijive]

Chromebolt,

 

Once it is registered on a Form 10, that is the end of the line. The gun was obviously not ever registered because BATF had no record of it. Once it goes on a Form 10, it can only stay with Law Enforcement. Your department can keep it but it can't be transferred to an individual or go on another BATF Form. It can go to another law enforcement agency, but what agency is going to pay your agency for an obsolete machine gun? A dealer won't want it or can't get rid of it because it is not transferable to an individual. The only thing that would make it transferable is a complete change in the NFA laws and I don't see that happening.

[Chromebolt]

gijive:

 

Unfortunately, I was aware of that. I thought Rust had found a way to convinve ATF to change the status if historical possession due to the military surplus program was established. Sigh!!!

 

ATF for about 10 years would not even accept registration on a form 10. After their restructuring, I guess policies changed.

[xracer]

I found some good information on oil and grease on Grant Cunningham's website www.grantcunningham.com . Click on Library. I have been using one of his reccomendations, Dextron ATF, in my 1928 Navy and it seems to work fine.

 

Brian

[Bruce L]

Chris,

 

I am very sorry for your loss. It is good to hear from you. What cars did your department buy? PS-Mobil 1 has worked well in both the Thompson and MAC.

 

Bruce

[giantpanda4]

Rust, I am sorry for your loss - I had no clue.

 

It is too bad you cold not come up with a way to get F10 guns back from that status - I know of several that i would like to change!

[newtommygunner]

Welcome back Rust, I am so sorry for your loss, hope you continue to heal.

[billatlanta]

The last time I talked with a Mobile 1 Engineer, a couple years ago, regarding a couple technical issues,

I raised the issue of Mobile 1 in firearms, and machineguns in particular.

His response was "good news/ bad news."

He stated the good news is that it would be superior for: friction, wear, extreme pressure,

and extereme temperature, and residual retention, and hydroscopisy (sp?) meaning it won't

mix with and retain moisture, and if operated at a high temp would allow moisture to

evaporate without the lube breaking down. (Good on all moving parts.)

The only bad news is that it would be inferior in corrosion resistance as it does not

contain as many inhibitors as other lubes (because that is not the enviornment it was

formulated for or operates in.)

That said-- we surmised that it would be best to ADD some to moving parts before shooting,

and here's another trick- it IS miscable (mixes) with regular oils so you don't need to clean

first, remembering that a diluted mixture will dilute the benifits proportionatly.

I use 20W, rather than the 10W or 0W. If you use in your car, the drainage from 5 cans

would lube your collection for life.

So--- maybe the correct answer would be oil your gun for storage, add synthetic before

(and during shooting) and re-oil for storage, for the best of both worlds ?

I clean and use a protective oil when not in use.

Another thread asked about a leather holster for his TSMG-- don't ever STORE one in

leather because it has a high moisture content and acids. Ever look at the rivets on

a WW11 holster?

Mobile is great, I think anyone could call and ask to speak to an engineer to answer

any technical question.

p.s. Tractor trailers are running about 50,000 miles before oil change, and Ford has

"Lifetime sealed" many of their differentials (rear axles) not to be checked or

changed for life unless leakage or submersion in water.

And a 747 jet engine operates on only 1 or 2 quarts?

Bill

[emmagee1917]

Not to sure about ATF . It makes a good , compatible flush for power steering systems , and any residue will mix ok with the power steering fluid . People who run ATF in place of power steering fluid , because of the cost , loose about half thier life on the steering units ( unless thier unit was designed for ATF ) due to the lack of things that are present in PSF , causing it's higher cost.

Chris

[jim c 351]

You guys know how easily I get confused, so please help me out.

What is wrong with Hoppes or Kleenbore gun oil that makes it advisable to use automotive oil??

Thanks,

Jim C

[PaulJicha]

To the best of my knowledge, Hoppes is a solvent, not an oil. Meaning it is good at removing fouling and cleaning the metal, but an oil is required for lubricating bearing surfaces and protection from corrosion. I use Remington Oil for that. Edited August 10, 2012 by PaulJicha

[jim c 351]

To the best of my knowledge, Hoppes is a solvent, not an oil. Meaning it is good at removing fouling and cleaning the metal, but an oil is required for lubricating bearing surfaces and protection from corrosion. I use Remington Oil for that.

Paul,

Its true that Hoppes makes #9 bore solvent, but they also make #9 lubricating oil.

While its true I am easily confused, but not that easily confused.

Jim C

PS,-- now back to mt original question.--see #21

[OCM]

Jim C, that's a good question, I was wondering that too. I've got a lot of motor oil around here, have a hard time thinking of sticking that in my Thompsons or others ?

 

Right now I'm using bulk Rotella-T, 15W-40 and either Outers or Remmington Rem-Oil . At 9 Qts per car, I'll stick with the Rotella-T Haaaaaaaa

 

Not trying to be an ass, but why would one use motor oil in a $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Thompson or any gun. I 'm actually curious about that ? No matter what, I won't , but interesting to hear why.

 

best,

 

OCM

[Uncle Dudley]

Jim C, that's a good question, I was wondering that too. I've got a lot of motor oil around here, have a hard time thinking of sticking that in my Thompsons or others ?

 

Right now I'm using bulk Rotella-T, 15W-40 and either Outers or Remmington Rem-Oil . At 9 Qts per car, I'll stick with the Rotella-T Haaaaaaaa

 

Not trying to be an ass, but why would one use motor oil in a $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Thompson or any gun. I 'm actually curious about that ? No matter what, I won't , but interesting to hear why.

 

best,

 

OCM

 

 

Because it's hard to find whale oil.

 

 

from the 1911 forum http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?p=2715148

 

I only have a small amount of whale oil left that I got at an auction sale.