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Going to Look at a WWII Reising tomorrow


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Anything in particular I should be looking at? Of course any obvious markings. While I have seen a few and shot a few, I am asking the pros on any tips. He said he has 3 original mags. What is a reasonable price I should offer? Pics and more info to follow after I check it out.

Thanks kids.

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Mike,

 

If you have any questions while you're looking at it, text me, or give me a call. I'll be out of pocket during two of my daughters' ballet recital from about 12:30-2pm ET, but can help any other time. The 20 round magazines are worth at least $100 each, and are getting hard to find. A WWII era Reising will have a 14 ring barrel, and have a serial number without any kind of letter prefix. It will probably be in the 15,000 to 120,000 serial number range, IIRC. Check the compensator for blown out baffles...It will be obvious if it has that issue.

 

Just about anything $5500 or under, and it's a good deal. Ruben has a large selection available at $6495.

 

David Albert

dalbert@sturmgewehr.com

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes I did. I just completed my form 4 today. Now for the mug shot and fingerprints. Or should I hold off for a couple weeks and not have to have the CLEO sign the form.

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I would not refinish the mags take some brass/bronze wool from brownells and your favorite oil take the rust down the wool will not harm the surrounding bluing and just keep well oiled not use steel wool?

 

hard to tell but the reciever/barrel marking look military P & dot is there another letter also besides the P

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There is no pitting on the mags. They are smooth and have an equal patine on all four mags. I will hit them with a 0000 steel wool and oil them good.

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Ron,

The steel wool won't damage the mag but it will be harsher on whatever park is left.

A penny is another tool that I use on rust spots. Nothing can remove rust because rust is missing steel, but it makes the rusted area feel a little smoother and somewhat less noticeable. Use it on blue finish also.

Jim C

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Jim,

 

I know this is the often repeated advice, but I question the logic behind it. Certainly I would not take steel wool to a mint condition item that has a high degree of finish left on it as it will remove some finish. The amount removed is dependent on time and pressure used in rubbing (I am only speaking of 0000 grade). For years I have used this with a penny to remove the thick rust. I prefer pre 76 pennies as they are full copper. The penny leaves copper on the gun that then has to be rubbed off with something.

 

I checked Mobray's 331+ Tips for Gun Collectors (a great book by the way). Their take was to start with a wood or plastic point and oil and work your way up to steel wool. They comment avoiding using different metals for risk of corrosion due to dissimilar metal contact (a valid point depending on the combination of metals used).

 

Relative the these Reising mags, I view you are doing the piece more justice by getting the rust under control and using them than worrying about removing a couple of microns of phosphate. Of course this is highly dependent on the operator more than the tool. Gentler pressure and as limited time as needed to remove the roughness are all that are recommended. I've used bronze wool before and have this in my arsenal, however I have noticed the same issue with material left behind (like the penny).

 

Ron

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OOO or OOOO steel wool should be used with light oil applied to the wool. This is how the y "Card" newly rust blued firearms. Brass wool works well

also. I've cleaned up active rust for decades using Steel wool and oil. Unless the metal is pitted, they look new. I just cleaned up a 20 gauge model 12

Winchester for a guy a couple of weeks ago. It removed the surface rust and the bluing looks great. There was a bit of pitting and there isn't much that

can be done for that. You don't want to use the wool dry.

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when carding with rust blue it is best to use a coarse cloth and brass wool, if one has done extensive rust bluing you would know this. it may take numerous attempt to get the proper finish one desires, but steel wool only removes what you just put on. while coarse cloth or bronze/brass wool does not remove the coating just the excess. steel wool digs in to the finish.

 

as noted bronze/brass wool can leave a copperish residue. this will come off with oil and rag

 

next I will read its ok to use a brillo pad again use what you want

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