Fitting Upper and Lower of Savage M1 Question

[imageaudio]

I've got an early Savage M1 with matching upper and lower. I purchased a parts kit to protect the lower furniture from dings when I take it out to the range to allow friends to shoot.

 

When I install the parts kit lower, it slides on easily until about the last 1 -1.5 inches which then becomes very tight. Too tight for me to separate to clean. (I need one person depressing the frame latch pin and pulling one direction while the other person pulls the other direction.) Gun runs fine with mismatching lower installed, just a booger to break apart.

 

No burrs that I can find on the rails or channels, just a really tight fit. (original upper and lower fit just fine and easy to dis-assemble)

 

I've thought about carefully polishing the last 1 inch of the inside channel on the lower ever so slightly to try to loosen the fit but something inside me just hates to take any metal away from a tight fitting gun. But of course, I don't want to need two persons to disassembly the gun.

 

So of course, I'm putting it up on the post for suggestions. Any thoughts???

[ppgcowboy]

You are of course in full auto with the trigger pulled?

[Colt Chopper]

Not every lower fits every gun. There are certain tolerances. I would try to find another lower that fits better, and sell the one you have.

[2ndArmored]

After 3 decades of playing match-maker, I'm still surprised how often a given part (e.g. receiver) will slide effortlessly, sloppily, or stubbornly against various frames. You're going to have to part with some metal - either a little or a lot. You can do some judicious polishing where the shiny spots are, or take Colt Chopper's advice and swap out the whole thing.

[jim c 351]

I recommend shooting with the original lower and putting the extra lower in the spare parts bin, you'll probably never need it.

If you have friends who handle your gun carelessly, find new friends.

Jim C

[Bridgeport28A1]

I recommend shooting with the original lower and putting the extra lower in the spare parts bin, you'll probably never need it.

If you have friends who handle your gun carelessly, find new friends.

Jim C

I agree with the advice given by Jim C.

Edited May 2, 2021 by Bridgeport28A1

[imageaudio]

The Wisdom offered on this forum never ceases to amaze and entertain me. Loved Jim's comment about friends who don't care for your equipment. Always important to have a laugh every now and then.

 

Good news is my friends are careful with my guns. In this particular instance, I was working with a group of quality teenage boys and trying to give them a lifetime memory with a piece of history and thought, just in case someone scratches or dents the wood, why not run my parts bin lower?

 

All had fun on the range day and of course, the Thompson was the highlight for everyone (as it should be!) It was the first time to run this lower and was just surprised how tight it was. Think I'll polish the shiny spots a little and live with the results.

 

Perhaps next time, part of the Thompson day with the boys should be teaching them how to clean the gun too! Life and learn.

 

Thanks all for your comments!

[Rimcrew]

If you are concerned about damage, why not just swap out your wood for the parts kit wood?

 

I put Dan's excellent wood on my 21A Colt, just to keep it from getting safe scratches. The originals are well wrapped and tucked away for my kids to find after I'm long gone.

Edited May 2, 2021 by Rimcrew

[TD.]

imageaudio,

You have some great advice in the above posts. I would advise against using a frame that does not slide on and off the receiver like the original. Galling between the receiver and frame is always a possibility even with ample lubricant. If that happens, you may end up having to cut the frame off the receiver. I have seen USGI 1928 frames do not slide on or off easily on Colt era receivers. It is always best to make sure a frame fits before purchase. Or make sure there is a liberal return or exchange policy. Of course, PK can most likely professionally fit any frame to a particular receiver, a route I would take given the cost of the gun and spare frame. I want something that works perfectly. Too much can go wrong needing two people to field strip a Thompson.

 

Good luck.

[reconbob]

Having also fought the trigger frame wars, the difference between the good sliding

fit you are looking for and the getting-stuck fit of the second frame can be so little as to not

be something you can measure - like 0.0005-0.001".

One general concern is if the second frame is real tight and you get it jammed on there

you may damage/gall the rails of the receiver un-sticking it. To fit the second frame I would

work only on the frame, not the receiver. If you work on both the first frame will fit looser

than it does now.

First check that the rear of the frame back where the rails end is not dinged and also that

the part of the receiver that engages there is not slightly damaged because that's where, with

1 - 1 1/2" to go that the parts engage each other - the part of the receiver on either side of

the frame latch hole.

If that seems OK I would get your hands on a section from a cut receiver and check the

fit on that. Now, your piece of cut receiver is going to be shorter and if the frame slides OK

on that then it is likely bent, dinged, or twisted, again nothing you would be able to see or

measure.

To fit the frame you could use Swiss files in the rails - again TF only, not receiver, or

you could try putting fine valve grinding on the rails of the cut receiver and frame and

sliding back and forth to abrade away the tiny amount that is causing the frame to stick.

Yes, the grinding compound will wear the finish on the inside of the rails of the frame,

but not where you can see it unless the frame is off the gun.

All this being said I agree that really the best thing is to find a different frame that

fits and pay for by selling the frame that sticks.

 

My $0.02

 

Bob