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Thompson Parts value?


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I am about to get a large group of Thompson parts and accessories that I will then be tasked with selling. I need to know what are fair prices for the following:

 

Thompson Parts:

5-Cell Hoosier 1942 with 5- 20 rnd mags. Two are Crosby's, two are Auto
Ord. Corp, and one is SWCO

3- Cell RM CO. USMC 1944 with 3- Seymour 30 rnd. Mags

2- 30 rnd. Mags in wrapper
2- Seymour 30 rnd. Mags
1- No Buck sling M1917
1- GI mustard M3 sling
1- GI green sling Post WW2
1- Set of M1A1 British lend and lease stocks
2- Barrels refinished used
1- New forearm grip
1-M1A1 parts kit (with demilled receiver)
1-1936 Thompson Catalog
1- New lower GI receiver in grease
2- New in wrapper 1928 actuator's
2- New1928 Blued bolts.
1- Savage pilot rod and buffer
1- Savage firing pin and spring
2- New 1928 ejectors
3- New M1A1 ejectors
4- New Savage Blish locks
2- Felt packs for oil can butt stock
1- Set of new Savage internals
1- Set of used internals
1- M1A1 Bolt complete
1- Early Nickel 1928 Bolt complete with actuator all Savage
1-1928 oilier
1-New 50 rnd. Auto Ordnance Bridgeport and 1942 Avery shoulder pouch new
3-New 1928 buffer springs

 

I will also have M60 parts, FN SAW parts, and a Chilean PAW 9mm parts kit,
(Suppose be one of three in the US.) I can use all the information I can get. Thanks in advance.

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new GI lower in grease........id like that

somebody's got a lot of work quoting all this stuff, but I believe you've come to the right place .

Edited by MARK2112
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jbassmaster18,

Welcome to the Board. Selling Thompson parts is just like selling any part. If you are going to price it the same as Gun Parts or SARCO retail, you will have a long term project on your hands. If you can beat the price of Omega Weapons Systems (and your parts are just as nice), then most parts should sell fairly quick. Some additional information is needed on some of the parts. Pictures are really needed. My comments are below:

 

5-Cell Hoosier 1942 with 5- 20 rnd mags. Two are Crosby's, two are Auto
Ord. Corp, and one is SWCO

3- Cell RM CO. USMC 1944 with 3- Seymour 30 rnd. Mags
2- 30 rnd. Mags in wrapper
2- Seymour 30 rnd. Mags
1- No Buck sling M1917
1- GI mustard M3 sling
1- GI green sling Post WW2
1- Set of M1A1 British lend and lease stocks
2- Barrels refinished used
1- New forearm grip - Is this milled or with a rivet?
1-M1A1 parts kit (with demilled receiver)
1-1936 Thompson Catalog - Is this original or a reproduction?
1- New lower GI receiver in grease - this should be referred to as a frame. The word receiver will draw unnecessary attention. Is it a 1928A1 or M1A1 frame? Any serial number present? Any government tags or writings on packaging material (if any)?
2- New in wrapper 1928 actuator's - knurled or smooth ball. Manufacturer marking(s) needed.
2- New1928 Blued bolts.
1- Savage pilot rod and buffer - early or late type?
1- Savage firing pin and spring
2- New 1928 ejectors - smooth or with rivet?
3- New M1A1 ejectors
4- New Savage Blish locks
2- Felt packs for oil can butt stock
1- Set of new Savage internals - How do you know? In original packaging?
1- Set of used internals
1- M1A1 Bolt complete
1- Early Nickel 1928 Bolt complete with actuator all Savage - knurled or smooth actuator?
1-1928 oilier
1-New 50 rnd. Auto Ordnance Bridgeport and 1942 Avery shoulder pouch new
3-New 1928 buffer springs

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This is a nice lot of parts. The good parts - the M1921 parts, drums, the mags, and the trigger frames you

should be able to sell. The rest of the parts you will have trouble selling unless you offer them for

1/2 their "retail" value. You would be better off selling the smaller stuff as an entire lot. You'd go

crazy trying to sell mag catches, triggers, and screws one at a time. Other than the fire control levers most

The parts in the trigger frame don't wear out and except for the mag catch and fire control levers there is little

demand. You can sell the bolts for $50 - a real deal...but if you price them at $100 which would be "fair" retail

you probably would not sell one for months.

Every once in a while I put a small part like an H-lock, or a breech oiler, etc. on Gunbroker. And they

sell for $25-$35. But by the time you calculate the postage, email the buyer, package it to ship (and buy the

padded envelope) , drive to the post office, stand in line at the post office, cash the check, save and file the receipt

in case it gets lost, etc. etc. you realize that all of that time is not worth the $10-$15 you made on one part.

Anyway, good luck with selling them!

 

My $0.02

 

Bob

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jbassmaster18,

 

I'm going to leave this post in place, as it is not yet a sales solicitation. Please keep in mind that as a new member, you are not yet eligible to post items for sale here.

 

All,

 

All members who may choose to attempt to acquire any of these items through the board tools need to exercise appropriate caution, as the member only has a few posts, and is not known to me.

 

David Albert

dalbert@sturmgewehr.com

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I understand the hesitance. I have had this lot put in my lap to sell. I am a member on the U.S. militaria forum and cmp forum for several years. What do I have to do to be able to offer these parts (when I get them) to the forum members??
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Sandman, why do you think that is a repro 21 actuator not an original?

I don't know if you have enough info from the pic or not.

 

Also, the catalog came in an envelope, exactly the same as one I got from a guy who most likely got his stuff in the 60s from the Northeast part of the country. It is believe dto be original. What does the envelope say on it? From/To?

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The envelope is pre-1962, which is when we started seeing the reprinted Numrich 1936 Catalogs with the bottom Thompson trigger that did not intersect the target line. It's pre-1962 because it doesn't have a zip code. The catalog is original.

 

jbassmaster18,

 

You have to be an RKI member to post items for sale, or you need my permission ahead of time. If you will e-mail me privately with some more information about yourself, I will consider it. Please read the forum rules about posting items for sale prior to contacting me. (see the Machinegunboards.com Guidelines link at the lower right hand corner of any page)

 

David Albert

dalbert@sturmgewehr.com

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Mike,

Regarding the 21 actuator, I don't see any knurling on the ball that would lead me to believe it is original. I would want some good pictures of that part before buying as there are cast 21 actuators on the market. I have seen several; they appear like a cut down WH cast actuator. I would not imagine a cast 21 actuator would last very long in use.

 

Sandman,

A better setup for a 21 kit is one of PK's hybrid buffer pilots with disk. They are cheaper and will put much less stress on the end of a receiver. My 21 actuator is a converted 28 Savage actuator - by PK. This set-up works great!

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TD - I agree on both points! I did not see the knurling but assumed that was my aging eyes (and computer!).

Your second point about using the PK hybrid is spot on. I think it is the best way to go - I have a couple sets and use them in my shooting guns.

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Mark,

A real cool individual wouldn't ask that question. :-)

Darryl

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Sandman, why do you think that is a repro 21 actuator not an original?

I don't know if you have enough info from the pic or not.

 

Also, the catalog came in an envelope, exactly the same as one I got from a guy who most likely got his stuff in the 60s from the Northeast part of the country. It is believe dto be original. What does the envelope say on it? From/To?

The sharp edge on the rear of the actuator face is a giveaway of a cut job. The originals will have the edges broken or beveled. Looks like an ok job, but without a GI letter stamp or better photos, I'd presume it's cast. Edited by mnshooter
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