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New Numrich 100 Round Drums


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Ran my GPC C-drum with 15 year old Wolf steel case = 3 drum dumps with no problems. Next I ran with new production Wolf steel case and had stoppage problems similar to Stampcollecter and Sandlewood above. Switched to S & B brass case ammo and no problems. Suspect the new manufacture Wolf may be to hot with the resulting cycle rate to fast for drum spring to keep up. Will examine feed lips more closely. Great thread. Thanks to all.

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I actually got my calipers out and the rivets are aligned from the center points. There is a 0.020" difference in the width of the feed lips from the front to back. I think my problem may be my reloads are hotter and I have a higher cyclic rate, they were worked up in a 1911 and M10/45 and I think are too warm with the longer Thompson barrel. I have some blazer brass I need to dig out and try next outing and maybe get some S&B. I am shooting in a 1928AC I have had since late February. It performs flawlessly with any stick mag I have tried and the Taiwanese L drums.

 

http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo240/Sandlewood_3/Mobile%20Uploads/20170706_180046_zpsanroed7r.jpg

 

 

http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo240/Sandlewood_3/Mobile%20Uploads/20170706_180404_zpsa8tegtvm.jpg

 

Here is the greasing tool I made for cheap with a 1/2" pvc end cap and 6mm zerks with a cheap drill bit / tap set from Amazon. If I have to grease again I'll sand the top of the cap down to make a flat spot for more reliable clamping, but it worked for the 2 L's and 1 C I needed to grease.

 

http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo240/Sandlewood_3/Mobile%20Uploads/20170706_180222_zpsbux9rczi.jpg

Edited by Sandlewood_3
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Well guys, after all the raves over the new 100 round drums I decided to jump in an purchase one. If it works as well as the 50 round drums that I bought some years ago I will be very happy with it. I may just keep it in un -used condition. I also have a 100 round one from back in the 80's. I think they will look really great for display purposes.

Really ! Did I say that. Most likely I will run some rounds through it just for fun.

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Well, too follow up on my post #124 on doing all the slicking up with filing and polishing with steel wool. Got to the range this morning loaded the smoothed up GPC "C" drum with S&B 230gr and wound it to 16 clicks, set up 6 of the large kitty litter jugs to unload on, and zipped through the 100rds like a Singer sewing machine. Wow! that was awesome!!

My TSMG has never missed a beat, not a single hiccup on anything I've shot through it other than this 100rd drum. So was very pleased to get it running. I ran another drum full about 30min later and just slick as snoot it shot every round. I have full confidence in this "C" drum now. So now just put it away until maybe next year. So slicking up all the rotor and feed opening edges was all it needed...I probably did more than I needed to, but hey it works! Now to make me a drum greaser tool, and get all my drums greased! :D

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Stampcollector

 

Glad to hear the the drum works. They are well made and most of them work right out of the box but smoothing them up where needed makes a

difference.

 

I would venture a guess that even some of the Colt era drums had to be tweaked a bit to get them to run.

 

1921a

Greg Fox

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I took mine out and got 4 dry feeds. I ran a round through the spring guides and there is a tight spot, so I am am thinking it slows the feed up just enough to dry feed at a certain point. Would a needle nose be the correct tool to adjust the area that the rounds slow up? Edited by ppgcowboy
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I take a live round, set it down in the channels as if loading the drum, and push the round through the channels from beginning to end by hand. If I find a tight spot, I move the round back and forth on the channels until the round passages through freely. I then check the channels on both sides of the tight spot to insure I did not solve one problem but create another. It is not unusual to find a tight spot or two with any drum. Different brands of ammo can also behave differently.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I know it's a pleasure to get a C drum to run, my WH had to spend some quality time with Merle years ago. Still, doesn't anyone have an issue with almost $400 worth of NIB drum that won't run and needs de-burring or "smoothing up" to run correctly? If Gun Tests were doing a review and had multiple stoppages right out of the box it would receive an F rating.

 

I get it, the Kahr C drums are junk, and these either run or need minor tweaking to run so it's the only option. Just what else in the world would we be willing to buy for that much money, have not work, and write seven pages of glowing reports on? A new camera, i-phone, TV, etc?

 

I will probably be ordering one too. :blink:

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There's a lot of enjoyment in shooting 100 rounds in a burst out of a T-gun, although it is not a long enough burst for others nearby to go back to what they are doing. Years ago at a north eastern summer shoot, after spending quite while linking up 2500 round of.30M2, the belt was laid out and run through a 1917a1 with the firing going on long enough that people lost interest and went back to talking, fooling with their guns and shooting. After the belt was done, there was a lot of interest in the steam squirting out of the steam port and comments about the "waste" of ammo, but all in good fun! That was a hell of a fun burst!
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One thing we didn't mention in this discussion is that it's never a good idea to subject these guns to sustained automatic fire. I do it once in awhile for fun but there is a risk and it does erode the barrel and shorten its life span a bit every time we do it.

We used to refer to Maguire era guns and worn Colts as "shooters" but with the current values for transferable guns and parts I don't think there is such a thing anymore.

Edited by 1921A
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  • 1 year later...

 

 

They are $379.95 on the Numrich website...

 

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/1432140.htm#1478210

 

David

Indeed, that is a lot less $'s, than the C Drums listed for $577 on the Kahr arms A-O website.

 

Here in the UK, it does not matter if it operates or not, but it would complete the empty space in my Gordon Hergistad viola case.

 

 

Stay safe

Richard

 

Gordon H (2).JPG

Is that a deactivated 1921?
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Does anyone know where the thread is about the newer C drum serial number chart? The one that listed if the serial number was on both sides of the drum or one? I cant find it using the search feature.

 

There's some information in the pinned topics, in the Thompson Stick and Drum Magazine section.

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I had ordered two of them when they first came up for sale. I have tested only one so far and on the first dump it jammed once. took the bad round out and started over and it ran great. We were have so much fun with the first one we forgot to test the second one. we dumped eight more times giving the barrel time to cool and clean and it ran perfect all eight and 1/2 times.

that was three months ago and can't seem to find the time to run the second one. May just leave it net in the box for twenty years and sell it for a few thousand :) :)

The primer was bad in the first dump. I reloaded that round myself and later used it in a stick. I would recommend these drums in my lowly onion. The fifty rounder I had ordered a ways back seem to work very well with some greasing. the 50 rounders had the word ' Thompson " milled off with an end mill. they did a nice job of it to.

Top of the evening to you all.

Charlie Brown

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